Friday, March 15, 2013

Pazhayarai Temples


Pazhayarai, one of the Capitals of Chola Empire is about 5 km from Kumbakonam. During that period, the town was spread to 15 sq.miles. Pettai Naanayakkaaran street on the outskirts of Kumbakonam was bordering the then Pazhayarai Town. Mudikondan river was on  the southern end of the Town.This vast town is now broken into several small divisions .
 Pazhayar, Patteeswaram,Sakthimutram,Arichandram,Parkulam,Muzhaiyur,Ramanathan Koil,Darasuram,Konapperumal Koil , Ariyappadayur, Pambappadayur, Pudhuppadayur, Manappadayur,Rajandran Pettai are those divisions which we see now.

Excavations made in Nandan medu and Cholan Maligai have revealed that life was existing at this place since stone age. It also remained as a Temple city right from the Pallava period. Nandivarma Pallava II (710-715 A.D.) built a fort and lived here till it was attacked by a Pandyan King.Manimudi Chola ruled from here during 650 A.D. His daughter, Mangaiyarkarasi  was married to Pandian Maravarman Arikesari(also known as Koon Pandiyan and Nelveli venra Nedumaran). Nandhivarman III conquered Cholas and Pandyas and captured Pazhayarai from Cholas. Paranthaka II alias Sundara Chola (957- 970 A.D) lived here and renovated many Temples. The Town attained special attention during the regime of Raja Raja Chola I (985-1014 A.D) Rajendra Chola (1012-1044) spent his childhood here and  passed many orders. It was at this time Pazhayarai was also called as "MudiKonda Cholapuram" . Kundavai,the sisiter of Rajaraja I was living here in the palace,specially allotted to her. Rajaraja II (1146- 1168 A.D.) made Pazhayarai as his capital and built a great shrine at Darasuram. Inscriptions describe the place as Rajarajapuram and Rarasuram . Darasuram attained new heights during the period of Kulothunga Chola III. Mara Varaman Sundara Pandian invaded Chola kingdom,ruled by RajaRaja III and destroyed the palaces and downfall began for this historic town and it got divided into small villages within two centuries.

Somanathaswami Temple in Pazhayar can be reached via Muzhaiyur. Gnanasambandar  refers this place as "Aarai"  Umapathi Sivam's Siva kshetra Kali Venba refers it  by naming the Deities of the Temple as Somakalambikai and Someswarara. Amarneedhi Nayanar belonged to Pazhaiyarai. Swamimalai Temple has undertaken the renovation work of this Temple. While sculptures at the entrance showing warriors on horseback are damaged, we are left with some beautiful sculptures like Ravana lifting Kailasa giri, Ganesa and Shanmukha in the front mandapa.

The 3-tier Vimanam over the Sanctum carries images of Umasahitha & Gajasamharamurthi. Narasimha murthi is beautifully carved near the footsteps of Ambal Sannadhi. Inner Mandapam presents the image of Mangayarkarasi who was instrumental in bringing Sambandar to Madurai for the purpose of saving Saivism .

Pazhayarai Vadathali is in Muzhayur, now known as Dharmapureeswarar Temple. The elevated shrine faces east and the whole Temple, which faced extinction has been renovated fully and presents a new look. Saint Appar has sung Thevaram Hymn on this Deity after observing fast to free it from the clutches of Jains who kept it closed.

Pazhaiyarai Metrali is on the way from Thiruvalanchuzhi to Patteswaram. Sundarar has referred it in Thevaram though the complete "Padhigam"on this Temple is not available. It is said to belong to the Pallava period and a part of it has been renovated recently. The shrine is located at an elevated place. Outer wall is yet to be constructed and a board giving details of other Temples of Pazhayarai has to be kept at Patteeswaram Temple where people come in large numbers.

The west facing Temple at Pazhayarai Thenthali is under renovation. Among the mrthis on the Goshtams, those of dancing Ganesa and Ardhanari are worth mentioning.

Dheupureeswara Swami Temple at Patteswaram is a well known part of Pazhayarai. This place was also referred as Mazhapadi by Sambandar(".... Pazhasaiyul maada mazhapadiyurai Pattechcharam..." ) Palvalainaayaki is the name of the Goddess here. When Sambandar came here during hot summer, The Lord gave him a "Pandal" made of pearls. This incident is being enacted on the 1st day of the Tamil month Ani at this Temple. On seeing Sambandar's arrival under the "Pandal" The Lord ordered the Nandis to move a little so that there could be no obstruction between Him and Sambandar. This Temple is famous for its Durga Sannadhi which is worshiped by people from many parts of the country.

Sakthimutram is on the south of Patteswaram Temple. Sivakkozhundheeswarar Temple, sung by Appar is a big one and known for the famous sannadhi wherein Sakthi embraces Shiva and does Puja to Him. Inscriptions that belong to the period of RajathiRaja, Kulothunga  and Vijayanagar emperors are seen here. They describe this place as a part of Rajarajapuram(Pazhayarai).

Muzhaiyur is on the east of Patteswaram. Brilliantly carved Goshta Murthis add beauty to the Temple. This is also a place where a Veera Shaiva Mutt is located. It is said that Thuraimangalam Sivaprakasa Swamigal, Mahavidwan Meenakshisundaram Pillai and Dr U.V. Swaminatha Iyer stayed here and contributed a lot for Tamil Literature.

According to the legend, Kamadhenu,the Sacred cow of Devaloka had four daughters. Among them, Patti woshipped at Patteeswaram (place named after her); Vimali worshipped at Pazhayarai Vadathali; Sabali at Pazhayarai Metrali and Nandhini at Muzhaiyur.

The great Temple at Darasuram (Rajarajeswaram) was built by Rajaraja II (1145- 1173). In those days, Darasuram formed a part of Pazhayarai. The Temple of Airavatheswara is facing east. It is maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India. The main shrine is at an elevated level and the front mandapam is designed as if it is drawn by Yalis and elephants. The pillars of the Mandapam have nicely carved sculptures of Thripuranthaka, Shanmukha and Divine wedding. Those of Annapurni , Adhikara Nandi,Saraswathi and Kannappa Nayanar are awesome. The Vimanam over the Sanctum follows the style of Temples at Thanjavur and Gangaikonda Cholapuram. Emperors have donated liberally to maintain the Temple. The outer wall of the Sanctum has the sculptures depicting the lives of Nayanmars. The names of the Nayanmars are also inscibed above the respective panel. The separate shrine of The Goddess is also enriched with sculptures.

Brahmapureeswara Temple at Keezhkorkai can also be considered as a part of Pazhaiyarai as the distance from Patteeswaram is not more than 3 km. This Historic Temple was left uncared till recently. People turned blind eye over the wild growth of plants all around. The Temple would have faced ruin but for  the timely assistance of some good souls. The renovation work has started and the granite structure is carefully handled to remove the deep rooted plants. Work on front mandapam is nearing completion. The entire work may be completed before the end of the year. Murthis at Devagoshtam are outstanding examples of Chola Art. People desirous of contributing to this noble cause may contact Mr Sivakumar on his mobile,09344302966.    

Thursday, January 3, 2013

Mannargudi & Thiruthuraipoondi Temples


It is of utmost importance to plan the Pilgrimage. It does not mean covering of some Temples here and there and winding it up within a short time. At the same time it is not incorrect if we say that it requires patience. As often said, it demands lot of interest and devotion as well. Needless to add, that Pilgrimage to rural areas derives lot of Peace and one should be grateful to pay back whatever he can for the upliftment of these Temples.

There exist amzing places around Thiruthuraipoondi and Mannargudi and a pilgrimage in this region can be comfortable if we access them by staying in Thiruthuraipoondi and Mannargudi. Food and accomodation may not be that good over there but we can somehow manage with the existing facilities.

Bava Aushadheeswara Temple in Thiruthuraipoondi Town is otherwise known with several names such as Vilvaranyam,Brahmapuri,Navatheerthapuram,Jallikaranyam and Navagrahapuram in the Sthala Puranam. "Tharu" in Tamil means "Vriksha" in Sanskrit. The sthala Vriksha of this Temple is V(B)ilwam and it was called as Thiruththaruppondi. This west facing Temple is adorned at the entrance with a five-tier Raja  Gopuram. The shrine of Goddess  Brahannayaki faces east. Lord Nataraja performed Chanrda Choodamani Thandava for nine sages including Agasthya . On the southern side of the Sanctum is an east facing shrine for Theertha Vidanga Thyagaraja. Facing the Goddess' shrine is Mangalya Theertham and on its eatern bank is a shrine for Vedharanyeswara which was worshipped by Sage Agasthya One Jallikai, an ardent devotee,bathed in this Mangalya Theertham and  got back her husband Virupaksha who expired after killing Dharma Vratha,a Brahmin boy. The annual festival is condcted here for 25 days in a grand manner. Like in Thiruvarur Temple, we can see "Panchamuka vadyam",an ancient instrument in this Temple also. The sthala Puranam gives a detailed account of those who worshipped Lord Vilvavanesa. These names include  Nava Rishis ( Agasthya, Vamadeva, Kasyapa, Athri,Baradhwaja, Gowthama ,Viswamithra , Jamadhhagni, Vasishta) , Navagraha, Indra,Vishnu,Musukundha, Harichandra,Katwangatha, Kalmashapadha, Dilipa,Lava,Kaartha Veerya,Yayathi,Somasarma,Krishna Sarma,Vajra Sarma,Gnana Sarma,Sukesa Sarma,Merchants like Chandraguptha, Dhanarakshaka , Kamalanayana and Kruthagya. The Lord has blessed salvation for Kamalanabha, Karunakara,Vaivegi(a thief), Pandya King Vasumathi and others. Brahma Thertham infront of the Temple is so Holy that it has 16 Ghats each  on all its four sides totalling 64 which is said to be the abode of all Holy Theerthams.

A forty minute drive towards Thondiakadu takes us to another important Shrine at Idumbavanam, sung by Thirugnanasambandar in hisThevaram Hymns. The Puranam of this Temple connects events of Mahabharatha times. The Deity of this place was worshipped by Idumbi who married Bhima and stayed here. Her brother ,Idumba, a demon had a fort nearby. Hence the place got its name after them. The Temple has a 3-tier Raja Gopuram at the entrance and a Theertham in front of it. Sathgunanatha, the main Deity at the Sanctum was worshipped by Sage Agasthya. The sage who missed the Grand Divine wedding of Parvathi-Parameswara in Mount Kailash, was sent to south with a blessing that he would have the dharshan of the married couple at Vedaranyam. The sage  also had dharshan of the couple at many places,Idumbavanam being one among them. We too are blessed to see Them in the Sanctum,right behind the Shiva Linga. Goddess Mangalanayaki 's sannadhi faces south. This place is also famous for doing rituals for the ancestors. Nattukkottai Nagarathar have done the renovation work many decades ago.

Karpaganarkulam, Kadikkulam,as called in Thevaram is located some 3 km from Idumbavanam. This is yet another Temple,renovated by Nattukottai Nagarathar. Sung by Sambandhar,the main Deity is called Karpaga Natha as He blesses the devotees like a Kalpaka vruksha which grants all the desires. According to the sthala Puranam, Ganapathi got the special Mango from Shiva at this place after demonstrating to the world that Parvathi and Parameswara are our parents and making "Pradhakshina"(going round) of the couple is equivalent to circling the entire universe. There is an exclusive shrine for Ganapathi parallel to Karpakanatha's Temple. Adjacent to Karpaga Vinayaka's Temple is Kothandarama Temple. Lord Rama on His way to Lanka had worshipped here. The Tank in front of Karpakanatha's Temple is called Vinayaka Theertham and Jack Tree finds a place as the Sthala Vruksha.
The road to Muthupettai leads us to Thillai Vilagam where we find Temples for Rama & Shiva, a "must halt" for all those who travel in this region.

Koilur was called as Thiru usathanam in Thevaram days. "Usavuthal" in Tamil means inquiring something. Lord Rama was inquiring people on the way while searching Sitha Devi. When He reached here, He was blessed with Manthropadesam by none other than the main Deity of the place i.e., Manthrapureeswarar. Koilur can be reached via Muthupettai. Sambandar's Thevaram  on this Temple refers to the worship offered by Rama,Lakshmana, Hanuman & Jambavan at this place.

Pannatheru near Thiruthuraipundi was known as Thirumugathalai some thousand years ago. Santhanayaki sametha Pannakabaraneswara Temple of this place is sung in Thiruvisaipa by Karur Thevar and the Hymns find place in 9th Thirumurai. The Temple is undergoing renovation at a very slow pace.

Mannargudi is the suitable place to stay if we want to visit places around it. A "Pithru Dosha Nivarthi sthalam" called Thiru Rameswaram  is 5 km away from Mannargudi. Though the transport facility to this place is poor, people come here in large numbers to perform the rituals for their forefathers.A big Tank is there close to the Temple and people perform the rituals on the bank of this Tank. A  5 tier Rajagopuram is standing at the entrance which greets the visitors. The exqusitely carved devakoshtams around the Sanctum tell us about the dedication during Chola Period.

Kalappal , a  nearby place was called as Kalandhai during Karur Thevar's times. People refer it now as Kovil Kalappal. The Temple of Prabhanayaki sametha  Aadhitheswara is being renovated. It is said that Aadhitha chola had built the Temple. Kootruva Nayanar, one of the sixty three Nayanars was born here and his image is seen in the Temple.

Thiruvanduthurai Temple is sung by Sambandar and is connected with Sage Bringi.One can see lot of Plant growth over the Gopuram and Vimanams. It is time to remove them before they are deeply rooted. This shrine had been renovated by Nattukottai Nagarathars. Located in a tiny village,the Temple needs proper care.

Kozhundheeswarar Temple is close to the main road and easily accessable from Mannargudi  It is also renovated by Nagarathar community. The main Deity is sung in Thevaram by Gnana Sambandar. Worshipped by Brahma,Indra,Airavatha &Indrasena, the Moolavar faces West. Goddess "Thenmozhi" (Madhurabhashani)faces east. There are 9 Theerthams in this place. "Vanni" is the Holy tree of this Temple.  Annual festivals are conducted on the eve of Masi Magam and Vaigasi Visagam.

The place where the bell of Airavatha,the elephant fell is called Kottur Maniambalam where we find an ancient Temple for Airavatheswara,sung by Karur Thevar. Ani pournami is the day on which the Lord performed His dance. Renovationis planned for this Temple.


Thirukkalar can be reached from Kottur. Parasara,Dhurvasa and other sages have worshipped here. Mention has to be made for the outstanding contributions of Nagarathar community at this place. Amritha Valli Sametha Parijatha vaneswara is sung by Sambandar in his Thevaram verses. Thirukoilur mutt 's 5th Pontiff had initiated Veda patasala,Thevara patasala,Agama Patasala and Chariot for this Temple. The 7 tier Gopuram faces Dhurvasa Theertham. Sage Dhurvasa had dharshan of Anandha Thandava here to get rid of his anger. Performing Panchakshara Japam at this place is considered to yield many folded results. Brahmotsavam is conducted in the month of "Chiththirai" (April-May).
Naganatha Swami Temple at Paamani is located 3 Km off Mannargudi town. Worshipped by Adhisesha, the Deity was sung by Gnansambandar in Thevaram. Nattukkottai Nagarathar have renovated the Temple and many people visit the Temple to clear their Sarpa Dhosha. Naga Theertham is facing the Temple.

We conclude the post as usual with an appeal. Almost all Temples covered in this post require immediate attention. Philanthropists may extend their attention towards such Historic Temples which lack proper maintenance due to paucity of funds. Donating to rich places with Kgs of Gold and ornaments may fetch fame among the Public. But one should remember that these places are not secondary. All credit should go to those generous Nagarathars who had literally rebuilt the dilapidated Temples at interior villages. It is earnestly expected that their successors also follow the magnificent work done earlier. A visit to Thirukkalar will tell volumes about their dedication. Unfortunately the momentum seems to be slow as the Temple requires the same attention of the ancestors. Let us hope that somebody from Nagarathar community visit all Temples renovated by their ancestors and take stock of the situation.  People from other communities may join them in the Holy cause which  can bring back the old glory.

Friday, October 19, 2012

Temples near Thiruvaiyaru - II


When we are on a Pilgrimage, we  bound to notice many things which are unique. It attracts us only when we look keenly for it. Many times we fail to observe as we do not spare the time it deserves. For example, The Subramanya murthi along with His consorts carved in a single stone was noticed only during the recent trip to Sri Panchanatheeswara Temple at Thiruvaiyaru. I wondered how I missed Him during my previous visits to this Temple. It is common that all The three Deities are carved separately and perhaps this is an unique one for me. Of course, it is not accommodated in a separate sannadhi. Yet, it meant a lot for me. Renovation work was in full swing and the consecration is likely to take place in another few months from now. Hence I confined myself with the dharshan of main deities and decided to visit again once the renovation was over.

Among the seven places in and around Thiruvaiyaru(Saptha sthanams), the first part of this writeup had covered two places namely, Kandiyur and Thirupponthuruthi. Thiruppazhanam is harly 3 km from Thiruvaiyaru on the road to Kumbakonam. Sri Abathsahayeswara Temple is close to the main road. Sambandar and Appar have sung Thevaram Hymns on this murthi. Ambal shrine is in the outer prakaram. Swami vimanam, constructed of granite is a delight to  watch. Even the sculptures in this vimanam are made of granite. It is sad that visitors to this Chola Temple are not many.

 When Saint Appar visited Thiruppazhanam, his attention was drawn to a place where devotees were supplied with drinking water. As it was named as "Thirunaavukkarasar Thanneer Pandhal",he wondered who could sponsor in his name as he knew nobody there. He was told that the charity work in Appar's name was done by Appoodhi Adigal, a staunch Shiva bhaktha who held Appar in high esteem after he came to know all that happened in Thiruvadhigai. On hearing more about Appoodhi Adigal, Appar visited his place called Thingalur which is 2 km away from Thiruppazhanam. The story goes that Appar saved Appoodhi Adigal's son from snake bite by invoking the Lord's blessings through his Thevaram Hymns.

The sign board on the main road mentions Thingalur as "Chandiran Koil"(Temple of Moon God) There is no doubt that the place is worshiped by Moon and people visit there to perform "Parihara Pujas" for moon. But the main deity of the Temple is Kailasanatha and therefore it is apt to rename the board as " Kailasanatha Temple , Thingalur, Chanrdran Parihara sthalam. "  The most unfortunate thing is the group of people who come here to perform "Parihara" for Moon during their "Navagraha Tour" seldom visit Thirupazhanam .

Temples at Thiruvedhikudi, Veerasinganpettai and Thiruchotruthurai are in the same area with a distance of say, 2- 4 km from each other. We start from Thiruvedhikudi, dedicated to Sri Mangayarkarasi sametha Sri Vedapureeswara, worshiped by Vedas. Ganapathi at the entrance of the Sanctum is in a unique posture as he He is keenly watching the Mantras pronounced by the Vedas. His head is slightly tilted ,indicating His desire to listen to Vedas. Since Thirugnanasambandar has mentioned about girls getting married with good boys in his Hymn, many people who want their wards to get married visit the Shrine to submit their prayers before the Lord. The Prakaram houses nearly 108 Shivalingas and the Vimanam , built in the same style as seen in Thirupazhanam. The Temple is undergoing renovation at a slow pace.

Another Temple drew our attention at Veerasinganpettai. We stopped for a while when we read on the wall of Sri Vaidyanatha Temple as the one which has 276 Shiva Lingas.                                                                                                                     We decided to break the journey with the thought that such a Temple should not be missed. We thanked Heavens for having seen the writing on the wall while driving through the village. As a rare dharshan, we saw 276 Bana Lingams at a same place in the Prakaram. The Temple is in a good shape and it has not come to limelight  to draw more attention from nearby places like Thanjavur and Thiruvaiyaru. Some volunteers of the village should come forward to tell people about this great Temple.

Sri Annapoorani sametha Sri Odhanavaneswara Temple is also a big one and maintained well. Considering its rich Heritage, it should attract more visitors. Pujas are carried out with lot of involvement without expecting anything in return. The Temple Trustee who lives nearby shows lot of interest in developing the Temple. More persons like him are needed to take care of the rural Temples. This Temple is sung in Thevaram Hymns by all the three Acharyas. Saint Arunagirinathar has sung Thirupugazh in praise of Shanmukha here. During "Sapthasthana festival, Lord Panchanatheeswara visits this place around noon. The devotees who follow the palanquin are fed here.

Palanquins of all the other six places come together during the summer festival and finally arrive at Thillaisthanam , mentioned in Thevaram as Thiruneithanam. Palanquin of Sri Gruthapureeswara (Neiyaadiappar) also joins them and go straight to River Cauvery which flows right opposite to the Temple.

One should not miss visiting Perumpuliyur which is not more than 3 km from Thillaisthanam. The vimanam of Sri Vyagrapureeswara Temple is marvelous and the base is circular. The main deity is sung by Thirugnanasambandar and worshiped by Sage Vyagrapatha. A Vishnu shrine (one among 108 Divya desams) is also there in the village.

All these villages were looked after by sincere devotees for many centuries and Emperors  were there to  generously gift lands for maintaining them. It was only when people started migrating from villages, the Temples suffered a lot in the absence of dedicated souls and sponsors. To make matters worst, the lands given on lease did not realise any return to meet the recurring expenses of the Temple. Hence the situation now demands help from outside to do daily Pujas and pay the salary of the staff as HR&CE dept is still paying only few hundreds as salary with which it is impossible for the archakas to run their families. We continue to appeal to well wishers to think about the plight of these people and extend all possible help at the time of distress. It is,indeed, a service to God Himself.

Monday, September 17, 2012

Temples near Thiruvaiyaru


Music lovers who pay Homage to  Saint Thyagaraja, the Great composer at Thiruvaiyaru on the eve of his Aradhana rarely visit the wonderful Temples of the region. Likewise, the devotees  who assemble here for Saptha sthana festival in summer miss the opportunity of visiting the ancient Temples around Thiruvaiyaru. People who come to see Thingalur on the outskirts of Thiruvaiyaru under "Navagraha Tour" do not take time to visit the Temple at Thirupazhanam although they need to pass through it.

Kandiyur comes under "Saptha sthanams" of Thiruvaiyaru, the other places being Thiruvedhikudi, ThiruChotruthurai, Thiruppazhanam,  Thirupoonthuruthi and Thiruneithaanam. It is about 3 km from Thiruvaiyaru on the road to Thanjavur. Sri Brahma Sira Kandeeswarar Temple of Kandiyur, facing west is considered similar to Kalahasthi as The Lord gave dharshan to a saint who used to visit Sri Kalahasthi regularly on Pradosham days. A beautifully carved Nandhi welcomes the devotees soon after entering the Raja Gopuram. Sambandar and Appar have sung Thevaram Hymns on the main deity. The south facing Goddess is called Mangalambigai. Vilvam is the holy tree of this Temple. While making a round in the prakaram,one can see a big idol of Brahma seated along with Saraswathi.The Palanquin festival of Kandiyur is a famous one and draws huge crowds from nearby villages. As Lord Panchanatheeswara of Thiruvaiyaru along with Dharmasamvardhani decorated in a Palanquin visits the other six places to introduce the newly wedded couple, Nandhikeswara and Suyasambika, the deities of the six places welcome Him amd join Him in the procession and go upto Thiruneithaanam(Thillai sthanam) and return to their respective places on the next day. Kandiyur has also got a Vishnu Temple, sung by Thirumangai Azhwar.

The road that branches towards west at Kandiyur takes us to Thirukkattuppalli and beyond. We come across many Temples which are to be visited atleast once in a lifetime. The first leg on this stretch is Thiruppoonthuruthi where we see a huge Temple sung by Appar . Sri Pushpavaneswara Temple will certainly be admired by lovers of architecture. The sculptures of Nandhi, Ardhanaari, Dhakshinamurthi worth watching several times. Saint Appar had stayed here for a long time and during this period, Sambandar joined him after the successsful tour of Pandya Kingdom where he reestablished Saivism. This Temple which surely deserves to draw many devotees and admirers is left unnoticed!

Another five minutes drive on the same road will lead us to Thiruvalampozhil, where the shrine in located very close to the road. Gnanambika sametha Athmanatheswara (Vatamoolanatha) Temple of this place faces east. The priest comes here from Thiruppoonthuruthi once in a day to do poojas. Appar has sung in praise of the moolavar.He advocates us to meditate by thinking The Lord of this place.
Nadukaveri is the next place where we find two Shiva Temples one on each side of the road. The Temples of Haribrahmeswara and Kalakandeswara are usually kept locked and one must be fortunate to have dharshan only when the priest arrives.By proeeding further on the same road and taking a diversion , we reach Varahur, where there are two well maintained Temples of Kailasanatha and Srinivasa Perumal. Uriyadi festival of this place involves people from many parts of the country.

Sri Sundareswara Temple at Senthalai is the next destination. This rarely visited Temple is quite old and Poojas are carried out only once in a day. The entrance is adorned by a Raja Gopuram in which we find many sculptures made of lime. Saptha mathas are worshipped here on the prakaram who grant wishes of the devotees.

Another diversion from the main road takes us to Ranganathapuram , known for Srinivasa Temple where the Kalinganardhana Krishna's idol is kept. Sri Gajaranyeswara Temple, constructed on an elevated platform is there on the way to the village.

The Temple at Nemam some 3 km from Thirukkattupalli is adjacent to the main road. Sri Alankara Valli sametha Sri Airavadheswara Temple, though small, is a must for devotees. This is considered as a " Vaipu sthalam" as it is mentioned in the Hymns of other place.The  life size murthi of the Goddess is fascinating.

Sri Gnanambika sametha Sri Vijaya Vidangeswara swami Temple at Ilankadu  near Nemam has witnessed renovation and Kumbabishekam recently and the huge vimanam and the well carved Nandhi are real treasures to be watched and cherished. Mullaikaadu, Arkadu,Pazhamaneri,Karuppur,Konerirajapuram and Kanda mangalam are nearby places where Shiva Temples are located. Vishnampettai near Thirukkattuppalli also has a Temple and the one at Thirukkanoor on the banks of the river Kollidam is sung by Sambandar and Appar.

Before winding up the short tour of this region, we visit Sri Agneeswara swami Temple at Thirukkattuppalli. Since People visit here from nearby villages in good numbers, getting  dharshan at  the Temple should not be a problem. Agni worshipped Lord Shiva here and created "Agni Theertham", a Holy Temple Tank. Sambandar and Appar have sung Thevaram Hymns on Sri Agneeswara.The annual festival of the Temple is conducted in liew of "Panguni Uthiram" that falls arround the month of April.

As in the past we appeal to the readers to visit these places and create awareness among well wishers so that the Temples can be maintained in a better manner. Poojas at most of these places , once done for four times in a day have been reduced to only once because of poor patronage. Those who contribute liberally to rich and well known Temples can also have a look at these places and help in such a way that even the one "kala" puja is not stopped at any cost. Of course, this is the least we can do and it is our duty too.

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

A peep into God's Kingdom


             It may be appropriate to start the pilgrimage in the Central part of Kerala from Kalady,the birth place of Adhi Sankaracharya , the greatest Philosopher saint of India. The birthplace was rediscovered by Sri Sachidhanandha Shivabhimana Narasimha Bharathi, the 33rd Acharya of Sringeri Mutt. He established two Temples on the banks of river Poorna, where Sri Sankara's house stood. The Temples were dedicated to Goddess Saradha and Jagadguru Sri Adhi Sankara. The then King of Travancore, Sri Moolam Thirunaal Maharaja gifted lands to Sringeri Mutt for building the Temples.

            Sringeri Mutt's Temple complex has a Vedha Patasala and the samadhi of Aryamba, mother of Sri Sankara Bhagavath Padha. The shrines of Saradhamba and the Acharya face south. A book stall, an agraharam and a guest house are located just outside the Temple complex. Sankara Jayanthi is being celebrated every year  on the eve of Vaikasha Shukla Panchami, the day on which Sri Sankara was born.

            An old Temple, truly in the traditional style of Kerala is dedicated to Sri Krishna,also called as Kaladiappan is located close to Sankara's Janmaboomi. It is said that this deity was worshipped by Sankara when he was a small boy. Namboodris do pujas here and a grand recitation of Kanakadhara Sthotram (by Adhi Sankara)for ten days is carried out by 32 Namboodris here on the eve of Akshaya Thrithiya day to invoke blessings of Godess Mahalakshmi.

            Kaladi can be reached from Angamali, a small town on Chennai- Allepey rail route.It can also be accessed from Thrisur,Palghat, Cochin and Trivandrum. The international airport at Cochin is only 5 km away from Kaladi. "Keerthi Sthambam" in memory of Adhi Sankara near Kalady bus station is built by Kanchi Kamakoti Mutt . In the pooja section, one can see Padhukas and a gallery of sculptures depicting the Life of Adhi Sankara. Visitors are allowed to go upto the top of the Sthambam to look at them and also enjoy the nature around when peeped through the window.

             Manikka mangalam is on the outskirts of Kaladi where we find a Shiva Temple and a Durga Temple. As any other Temple in Kerala, these shrines are kept extremely neat and the divinity experienced has no match. Nambudris conduct daily Pujas on time strictly as per the tradition. Their sincerity is commendable.

            Thiruvellaman thulli Shiva Temple in Mattoor is a vast and ancient one and the standard of sanctity maintained is too good. This Temple is believed to have been worshipped by Aryamba, mother of Adhi Sankara. The Lord gave dharshan to her as white deer , hence the name "Vella Maan".

            Sankara Narayana Temple at Nayathrudu is also a very big one where the roof above the Sanctum is conical and huge. Wooden carvings around the sanctum delight the visitors. The entire route from Kaladi is a treat to watch and it will not be an exaggeration if we say that the Nature has not spared even an inch unless man becomes a hindrance. Even the houses en route are big and built in the traditional style without forgetting to plant different species all around the houses.

          Thirumoorikulam (referred as Thirumoorikalam by Azhwar) Vishnu Temple is yet another ancient Temple on the way where the deity is called as Lakshmana Perumal. The Lord carries Prayoga Chakra on His right hand.

          Thiruvanjikulam (Sung in Thevaram as Thiruvanjaikalam by Sundara Murthi Nayanar) is located close to Kottapuram, a small town. This is the place where Sundarar met Cheraman Perumal Nayanar and became his close friend. Thiruvanjaikala Mahadeva sent an white elephant to carry Sundarar to Kailash and Cheraman followed him on his horse's back. It happened on an Adi Swathi day and aptly remembered and celebrated even now by several devotees of this place and from outside the state. The Temple presents a very old look. Several small shrines are there on the prakaram. There are shrines for Sundarar and Cheraman and Thevaram Padigams are inscribed near the sannadhi. Thiruvanjikula Mahadeva shrine faces west and fine carvings are seen around the sanctum. Kodungalur Bhagavathi Temple is thronged by visitors and it can be reached easily from Thiruvanjikulam.

          In Perumbavur/Kotaapuram region, a place where three Vishnu Temples are located next to each other is a must for the pilgrims. In the first Temple, Srinivasa Perumal and Kulasekara Azhwar sannadhis are there similar to those seen in Tamilnadu. The second Temple is a small one and the third, dedicated to Madhava Perumal is known for its rich architecture.

            Thiruparayar Rama Temple is around 15 km from Kodungalur and it is known for unique offering of crackers. Many temples in this region follow suit and one can hear the noise of crackers frequently.

           Sri Vadakkunathan Temple at Thrissur is the next destination. It is located at a central place. The place in and around theTemple complex is kept tidy and free from encroachment. Credit should also go to the visitors who cooperate with the administration in maintaining the atmosphere clean and divine. The west facing shrine of Vadakkunatha swami was worshipped by Sivaguru and Aryamba , the parents of Adhi Sankara when they prayed Him to bless a child for them. The Lord indeed blessed the couple with an exceptional child who later established Sanathana dharma on strong footing by upholding the Upanishad tradition and Advaitha Philosophy. There is a separate sannadhi for Adhi Sankara on the prakaram.

           Guruvayur,some 30 km from Thrisur can be reached either by road or train. The Temple of Guruvayurappan  is flooded by devotees from several places. The Temple administration has done its best to facilitate quick dharshan for various sections of people. Kudos to them as all these arrangements are done without compromising the traditional practices.

           The visit to Guruvayur is said to be complete only upon visiting the shrine of Mahadeva at Mammiyur, 3km away. It is an ancient one,although not a big complex. If we go further away, we can reach a place called Punnathurkota which houses 64 elephants (as on date) belonging to Guruvayur Devaswom. The elephant camp is open between 9 A.M and 5 P.M. for the visitors. It is really fantastic to see so many elephants at the same place and that too at a close proximity. Mahouts are there to take care of them and a veterinary doctor is also available to attend the sick animal. It really gives pleasure to wind up the tour at this place as one can carry fond memories of God and His Creation. It is, no doubt, God's own country.

Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Raa Patteeswaram- Temples near Thiruvarur-IV


 Nandhi, The Sacred Bull is normally seen in front of The Sanctum in all Shiva Temples, facing The Lord. There are places like Thiruppungur and Patteeswaram where the Bull can be seen few feet away from the straight line where it used to be, yet, facing The Shiva Linga Murthi. There are also some places like Thirumullai Voil,near Chennai, Somangalam, near Kunrathur and Thiru Vaigavur near Swamimalai where The Nandhi and The Lord face the same direction.  We come across a rare sight where the Nandhi, seated right in front of the main deity, seen turning His head by 90 degrees and looking at the big and marvellous Dakshinamurthi,nearby.

       Raa Patteswaram is a small village on Kumbakonam- Thiruvarur bus route near Manakkal-Iyyampettai where the Temple is located near the motorway. It is maintained by Nattukkottai Nagarathar Community. The west facing Temple has no Gopuram in the front. The shrine, at a slightly elevated place has Lakshmi and Saraswathi on both sides of the entrance. The only outer Prakaram is full of grass which has to be cut to clear the way for devotees who wish to go round the temple.

 Maha mandapam unusually houses many Murthis who normally occupy the Goshtam/separate shrines in the outer Prakaram. A big idol of Ganapathi , very well carved one is seen here. A beautiful sculpture of Subramanya seated on Peacock is seen with his consorts. The Murthi, carved in a single stone,with six hands should delight the devotees.

 The huge idol of Bhairava is also a must watch. The crisply carved Murthi with jwala kesam,Tamarukam, Pasam,Bhiksha Patram, Kapala mala and Thrisulam is an outstanding one. Ashtami (eighth day ofter Full moon day)puja  is conducted for Bhairava  
     Moola Murthi is called Seshapureeswarar as the figure of a serpant is seen on the bana Linga. Ambikai , facing south is known as Andhapura Nayaki. Childless couples come here and take bath in the Temple Tank and worship the Lord and The Goddess to be blessed. Although a separate "Padhigam" is not available for this place, it has figured in Saint   Appar's Thevaram Hymn, and called as "Vaipu Sthalam"

       The Nandhi in front of Seshapureeswarar is unique as it has turned its head by right angles and  the place where it looks houses a superb Dakshinamurthi. It is also unique that the Murthi,normally found in the Deva Koshta in the south prakaram is seen here in the Maha mandapam. This masterpiece has a smile which is unparallel. His curling locks and the finely carved arnaments, Yagyopaveedham on His chest are simply absorbing. It makes the devotee unmoved for a while. Pujas are conducted once in a day for this rarely visited Temple which is unique in many aspects. We come out of the Temple with Prayers on our lips for the betterment of the shrine.

       It is desirable if people cultivate the habit of visiting such rare temples and render all possible help to preserve the  glory and at the same time extend a helping hand to the priest whose income is negligible. Negligence on the part of people and Goverment can only ruin the priceless structures which have withstood for many centuries because of good patronage. Devotees from nearby towns should make it a point to visit atleast one such temple in a month , the act, no doubt,will add value to their devotion.