Innambar and Thiruppurambiyam Temples

People normally visit shrines which they think are popular and important. Many times they skip places unknown to them even if they pass through them. Tour operators also plan to cover only those “important” places. The less known temples are thus left to the visits of few souls who consider all ancient shrines alike. If we take Kumbakonam – Thanjavur route for example, the often sought places are those in Kumbakonam town and Swamimalai. How many of us visit equally important Temples at Thiruvalanchuzhi and Nallur? Less said the better if we talk about those numerous temples en route which are left unnoticed. Not far away from Kumbakonam are the great Temples at Innambur and Thiruppurambiyam which can be easily covered within few hours if stationed at Kumbakonam.

Sekkizhar,the great Saivaite poet describes the route taken by Sundharamurthi Nayanar from Pazhayarai to Thiruppurambiyam by mentioning the places en route. After completing the pilgrimage to “Kongu Naadu’, Sundharar returned to Chola Naadu by reaching Karkudi, a place near Thiruchirappalli and sang Thevaram Hymns on The Lord. Then he went to Pazhaiyarai, one of the capital Cities of Chola Kingdom and worshipped at Aarai Metrali, located on the western side of Pazhayarai Town, very close to Patteeswaram and Thiruchathimutram. The Temple at Aarai Metrali is on an elevated platform, not looked after so well.

Then he proceeded to Innambar now known as Innamboor. The road from Patteeswaram joins Thanjavur road near Thiruvalanchuli at a distance of 3 km. The wonderful Temple at Thiuvalanchuli is about 1 km from the famous abode of Subramanya at Swamimalai. The road from Swamimalai to Kumbakonam has a diversion at a place called Puliyancheri from where one has to travel 2 km to reach Innambar and 3km thereafter to reach Thiruppurambiyam.

Sundharamuthi Nayanar on his pilgrimage from Pazhayarai to Thiruppurambiyam would have surely visited the famous Temple at Thiruvalanchuzhi. Since the palm leaves of Thevaram Hymns could not be recovered fully, Sundharar’s Thiruvalanchuli Padhigam might have been lost among them. His next place of visit during this pilgrimage was Innambar and here also we are not fortunate to get his Hymns sung on Swayambunatha Swami of this place. However, he mentions about this place while proceeding to Thiruppurambiyam. The first verse of this Padhigam reflects the disappointment he faced when he did not receive enough attention from The Lord of these places. Hence he decided to console himself and proceeded to Thiruppurambiyam. This is how the Hymn goes:

"அங்கம் ஓதி ஓர் ஆறை மேற்றளி நின்றும் போந்து வந்து இன்னம்பர்த்  

தங்கினோமையும் இன்னது என்றிலர் ஈசனார் எழு நெஞ்சமே                                             

கங்குல் ஏமங்கள் கொண்டு தேவர்கள் ஏத்தி வானவர் தாம் தொழும் 
பொங்கு மால்விடை ஏறி செல்வப் புறம்பயம் தொழப் போதுமே." 

The origin of the name Innambar is not clearly known. There are similar names that sound almost alike such as Ambar, Athambar ae there in Chola Kingdom. In this case, the prefix “ in “ distinguishes this place from Ambar which is near Poonthottam. Innambar is the 45^th Temple on the northern bank of the river Cauvery. The east facing Temple has a five tier Rajagopuram at the entrance. On entering the outer prakaram, we find the shrine of the Goddess Sugantha Kunthalambikai facing south. The Temple’s garden (Nandhavanam) is also there in this prakaram. We enter the Main sannadhi by crossing the second entrance. Naattukottai Nagarathar community has renovated Swami sannathi and the inner prakaram. It presents a new look after the recent renovation and consecration. A huge Gajabrushta vimanam adores the sanctum.

After crossing the Mahamandapam we get the dharshan of Swayambunathaswami from ardhamandapam. The Lord in the form of Mahalingam is huge and the avudayar is also huge in size. It is definitely an unforgettable dharshan which one should not miss. In fact we can visit this place as many times as possible in our lifetime to have a glimpse of this Murthi. Since He is worshipped by Airavatha, the white Elephant of the Devas, He is also known as Airavatheeswara. The Temple pond opposite the Temple is called Airavatha Theertham. The Lord has taught Tamil Grammar to the great sage Agasthya in this place. The legend also says that the Lord appeared in human form and submitted the accounts of the Temple to the King. Hence He is called Aksharapureeswara in Sanskrit and Ezhuththariyum Peruman in Tamil. Appar’s Thevaram Hymn says that The Lord takes down the names of those who worship Him with flowers and also those who ignore Him. Sambadhar has also sung Hymns in praise of this Lord.

On the right of Swami sannadhi, there is yet another sannadhi for the Goddess. As this represents the married form of Shiva- Shakthi, the Goddess is known as Nithyakalyani. The devakoshtas are also absorbing and positioned at an elevated level. Nataraja in stone is small but crisp. The sthala vruksham  (tree) is said to be senbakam. Inscriptions of Chola and Vijayanagar period describe the donations made by the emperors in the name of the Temple. A chola inscription calls this place as “vadakarai Innambar naattu Innambar”

Thiruppurambiyam  is located 3 km from Innambur and Sakshinathaswami Temple of this place is praised by all the four acharyas of Saiva sect. Incidentally, this was the battle field of the Cholas in 9^th Century.It is said that Aditha I built this Temple in memory of his victory and called it as Adhitheswaram.

During the days of deluge when the whole world was about to be submerged in the ocean, Brahma worshipped Lord Ganapathi. He made an idol of Ganesa with crab shell and sea weeds. Lord Shiva had deputed Ganesa to save the world from extinction. This is the reason why Ganapathy of this Temple is called “Pralayam Kaatha Ganapathi” On Ganesh Chathurthi day, Abhishekam is done with honey for Ganapathi and it is a miracle that the honey thus offered never comes out of the Deity. Pralayam stood at the outskirts of this town and therefore the place attained the name “Purambiyam” The word “puram” (புறம்) in Tamil denotes this meaning. (ஊரின் புறத்தே வெள்ளம் நின்றதால் புறம்பியம் ஆயிற்று)

This village is surrounded by river Manniyar on the east, Kollidam on north and Cauvery on south. Sthalapuranam mentions this place as Kalyanapuram and Punnaagavanam. There is a separate shrine fo Sri Dhakshinamuthi near the entrance. Special mention is made about this deity by Sambandhar and Manickavasagar. This is also one of the famous places of Lord Dhakshinamurthi. The imposing 5 tier Rajagopuram faces east and the adjacent outer prakaram has an alankara mandapam that houses Guhambika sannidhi. The Goddess Ikshu rasabhashani ( karumbadu sollammai) faces south in a separate shrine in the same prakaram. The second prakaram has Saivacharya sannadhi and Ganapathi, Somaskandha, Subramanya, Lingas worshipped by Agathya, Pulasthya, Sanakathi rishis and Vishvamitra on Thirumaligaipaththi.

Many murthis in Deva koshtas have suffered extensive damage in the hands of anti-socials. The sculpture of Kalsamharamurthi has been nearly destroyed. It calls for proper protection to all monuments.

Sthala vruksham is “punnai”which is seen on the north-west side of the prakaram. On the south east of Mahamandapam of swami sannadhi is a shrine for Pralayam kaatha Ganapathi. The swayambu murthi is also worshipped by Varuna. Abishekam for this murthi is carried out only once in a year – on Vinayaka Chathurthi day.

Dwarapalakas stand at the entrance of Sri Sakshinatha swami. Vanni, well and Sivalinga of this place appeared in Madurai to give evidence for the marriage that took place in Thiruppurambiyam between a merchant of Madurai and a girl of Puhaar. Hence the Lord is known as Sakshinatha. As the sage Dhuvasa had cursed Haridwaja, a Magatha King became sick. He got rid of the disease when he reached Thiruppurambiyam and worshipped the Lord. Himavan,Drona,Viswamitra ,Sugeeva, to name a few, have worshipped the Lord to be blessed by Him.

Inscriptions dating from the period of Rajakesai varman to Kulothunga Chola are found in this temple.

Renovation work is on at this Temple in full swing. The involvement of Sivacharya of this Temple is tremendous. Knowing fully that it required huge sum to renovate the temple, he narrates the visitors about the importance of the temple and calls for their assistance. Many donors come forward to give building materials and some others involve themselves in repairing the vahanams, painting the walls and providing backup inverter. Plastering the outer wall is the only giant work remaining. With hopes pouring from all directions, the Sivacharya is optimistic to conduct the consecration ceremony at the earliest. We need people like him at all village temples so that the devotees are briefed properly and involved as well in maintaining/renovating the shrines.     

Temples on the banks of Coovam

A pilgrimage on the banks of the river Coovum may appear funny for many persons as the region does not receive the attention that it deserves.. The interesting pilgrimage of the region can be centered at Thiruvallur where facilities such as boarding and lodging are available. It is well connected to places like Arakonam  and Chennai on the Railway map. A thirty minute drive from Thiruvallur takes us to Coovum, named after the river which originates at this place. Thevaram Hymn sung by Thirugnanasambandar mentions this place as Thiruvirkolam and Koogam.  While SanathKumara Samhithai of Skandha Maha Puanam describes the importance of this place, Sthala Puranam in Tamil was written by the great Thuraimangalam Sivaprakasa Swamigal some 800 years before.He has narrated the Puranam in about 700 verses  The river Coovum originates from a lake ,North of  the Temple. Another Temple which is sung by Sambandar , called Ilambayankottur is located on the other side of the lake. The Sthalpuranam mentions the river Coovum as " Paali "
{ " புண்ணிய தீர்த்தம் பாலி அல்லது புவியில் யாதோ? } Such a Holy river gets polluted once it approaches the Metro City of Chennai ! Another Tamil Literature called Ammanai calls the place as Thiru vIrkolam as a place surrounded by 24 " Cheris " like  kumaara cheri on the west, Irulancheri on nothwest, Kondancheri on north, Keezhacheri on East, Koovumcheri on the South. { " நாலாறு சேரி நடுவே திருவிற்கோலம் பாலாறு சூழ்ந்த பதியது காண் அம்மானை." } The number also refers 24 divisions of Manavoor . It also refers to 24 villages around Koovum including Narasingapuram, Pichchivakkam, Pudhumaavilangai, Pinjivaakkam, Mappedu, Pillayar Kuppam    from where the people serve the Temple even now. Holy water is brought from the beds of Koovum to perform Abhishekam to the Main Deity of Coovum Temple. Those beds are called "Thirumanjanak Kuzhi" Special mention may be made to the devotees of Pinjivaakkam who bring Cow's milk and flowers for the Noon Puja and those from Pudhumaavilangai who serve the Temple on Padhosham days.

The well maintained Temple at Coovum with a 5-tier Raja Gopuram can be seen as and when we enter the village amidst paddy fields.The legend says that the three forts of  Tharakaksha,Kamalaksha and Vidyunmali were destoyed by the smile of Lod Shiva although He started to fight against the Rakshasas by boarding a chariot. As the Devas failed to worship Lord Ganapathi at this juncture, He broke the axle of the Chariot. Hence He got the name "Achiruththa Vinayaka". His shrine is seen inside the Temple. Lord Shiva blessed all Devas when He appeared before them by holding a bow and arrow in His hands. The Main deity is therefore called Thripuranthaka and the Goddess as Thripura Sundhari. The Sanctum faces east and on the right side is the shrine of the Goddess also facing east. The Main Deity is considered to be too Holy and the priests never touch the Murthi with their hands. Hence people call Him as " Theendaath Thirumeni"

 Mappedu is hadly 15 minutes driving distance from Koovum. The Temple is close to the highway and presents a renovated look. The main entrance is beautifully carved on both sides and on top of it is a 5 tier Rajagopuram. The Temple which belongs to Chola period is dedicated to Lord Sringeeswara , worshipped by Sringi Muni. The vimanam over the sanctum carries many images of Lord Shiva such as Dhakshinamurthi, Bhikshadana, Anandha Thandava Murthi, Sivakami, Oordhuva Thandava Murthi and Karaikkal Ammai . The sanctum is on a raised platform. Pushpakuchambika Sannadhi is on the outer prakaram.

Sri Thayinum Nallal sametha Sri Kalinga natha swami Temple at Irulanjeri is 2 km away from Coovam. It is said that this place was called Irungalur and mentioned in Appar's Thevaram as Iraiyancheri. However, this claim has to be studied further. It is a small Temple surrounded by paddy fields. A dilapidated Mutt of Devar Singa Adheenam is seen near the Temple. Inscriptions that belong to the period of Rajaraja III are also found in the Temple.

There are many Siva Temples in and around Perambakkam, which is 2 km away from Irulanjeri. Kasi Viswanatha Temple in the town is amidst many houses but wholly neglected. Deities are housed in s make shift Temple. Si Kamakshi sametha Cholzheeswara Temple is a "Parihara Sthalam" where people come in large numbers on mondays to get rid of health related problems like neurological and orthopaedic disorders. The Temple is located in a serene atmosphere.

Mangaleswara Swami Temple on the outskirts of Perambakkam is in an isolated place. Only the Lingamurthi and Nandhi are remaining. The Lingam is placed on a platform and the Nandhi is seated in front of Him. Thick bushes and trees stand helplessly by surronding the Lord. The locals should take up the construction of the Temple with the help of philanthropists from outside.

Sri Kamakshi sametha Si Ishtasidhi Lingeswara Temple is yet another Temple on the way to Chitrambakkam. The renovated Temple is close to the road and the locals come in the evenings to offer worship.

Sri Kumbeswara Temple at Chitrambakkam is being renovated and the job is likely to be completed in another few months. Sri Kumbeswara Murthi in the Balalayam is a massive Shiva Lingam. It is heartening to find some well wishers over there to mobilise support from outside.

Sri Janamejayeswara Temple at Senji , close to Chitrambakkam is in a pathetic condition . The whole granite structure is threatened by wild growth of plants. Nobody seems to have bothered to protect the ancient shrine The residents near the Temple should take up the task of rebuilding and saving the old Temple without further delay.

One can cross the railway gate near Kadambathur and reach the local Temple. Si Muktheeswara Temple of this place enjoys local support and well maintained. Another isolated Temple near the place is Saatharai where we find a quiet shrine dedicated to Sri Vedhanayaki sametha Sri Vasishteswara. The Linga Murthi is a big one and it is unfortunate that  we do not find many worshipers here.

The Temple at Koyambedu, now a part of Chennai city is also located near the river Coovam. An otherwise quite Temple took new shape and started to attract many devotees since the last decade. It is worshipped by Lava and Kusa , sons of Lord Rama and the Lord is therefore called as Lucha Lavapureeswara . Saint Arunagirinatha has sung a Hymn on Lord Subramanya here.

Nerkunram is a "Thevara Vaippu Sthalam" , located close to the highway leading to Poonamalli. One must be lucky to have dharshan of the Deites here because the Temple is mostly closed except during the Puja time in the morning. But the Temple is in a good condition and the greenery around it presents an awesome picture. Nerkunravaanar of this place had written Thiruppugalur andhadhi , a celebrated  work in Tamil Literature in praise of Lord Agneeswara of Thirupugalur.

Noombal Agastheeswara Temple is almost covered on all sides by high rise buildings of companies and it is better to enquire at street corners to reach the Temple. Noombal just before Karaiyanchavadi/Poondhamalli and the Temple is an ancient one. Gaja Brishta vimanam is seen on Moolavar's garbagrugam and the Temple is said to attract lot of devotees on festive days.
One may wind up the pilgrimage of Shiva Temples on the banks of Coovam at the last destination at Poondhamalli Vaidhyanatha Swami Temple. Sculptures at the Main entrance convey the message that the Historic Temple was under the care of many rulers.  

An Unforgettable Dharshan

 It should be a fantastic experience for those who visit Gangai Konda Cholapuram on a Full moon day in the Tamil month, Aipasi. As the grand event is poised to take place from 10 A.M. to 6 P.M. it gives an opportunity to visit historic Temples on the way. Chidambaram, Kumbakonam and Mayiladuthurai are the convenient places for stay to start early in the morning and reach the destination on time. It so happened that the new month Aipasi started on the very same day when the Annabishekam day coincided. The whole month of Aipasi wears a festive look in Mayiladuthurai as the deities of many Temples of the town are taken in a procession , reach the banks of Cauvery for "Theerthavari". The first day , Amavasya day and the last ten days of the month are very important as the Deities are decorated and taken in different "vahanams" . The "Aipasi Usthavam" was started as per the customary practice when "Panchamurthis" were taken to Cauvery. It was a moment to cherish to have Dharshan of the Divine couple,Lord Mayuranatha and Goddess Abhayambika seated on "Rishaba vahanams"

The first place to break during the Pilgrimage to Gangai Konda Cholapuram was Kuthalam, about 10 KM west of Mayiladuthurai on the way to Kumbakonam. One need to take right at the bazaar and proceed for about a KM to reach Ukthavedheeswara Swami Temple. After crossing the five tier Rajagopuram, the Holy Tree of the Temple, Ukthaala Vruksham attracts us . It is covered by a dais which houses a "Padhuka" left by Lord Shiva and some "Naga Prathishtais" . The legend says that the Lord assured the Rishi that he had come form Kailasa to marry Parvathi who was born as the Rishi's daughter and He would marry Her on an auspicious day. It was during that time he left His Padhuka under the Holy Tree. The marriage took place at Thirumananjeri, some 5 km away from Kuthalam.

The Temple at Kuthalam is big and it needs to be renovated soon. The terracotta figures on the vimanam are quite big and remarkable. It is hightime to preserve them from destruction. Ukthavedheeswara Swami (Sonnavaaru Arivaar) is sung in Thevaram and a reference is made in Thiruvasagam too. The west facing Temple has a tank inside. On taking bath in the tank, Saiva Saint Sundarar got rid of the disease he had when he breached his promise of not leaving Thiruvotriyur. All Sundays are auspicious in the month of "Karthigai" (Nov- Dec) when the deities are taken round the town and reach Cauvery for " Theerthavaari".

The next stop was at Pandha nallur, known as "Pandhanai Nallur" in Thevaram Hymns. Both the Temple Tank and the Shrine are big and are well maintained. The tank in front of the seven tier Rajagopuram is called "Soorya Pushkarani" . The Goddess, Venu Bhujaambikai, facing north is said to have performed penance to marry Pasupatheeswara, the Lord of this place. Kalyana sundara murthi's shrine faces South. The important shrine of Sattainatha Swami , facing south is found in the prakaram.
The outer prakaram consisits of Nayanmars, Shrines of Ganapathi, Subramanya, Gajalkshmi, Saraswathi and Annapoorani. We also come across the sthala vruksha,"Sarak konrai" tree on the North Prakaram. Of the many Chola inscriptions in the Temple, the one which speaks about the interest shown towards restoring the old inscriptions during renovation is noteworthy.

Another half an hour drive via Anaikarai takes us to Gangai Konda Cholapuram. The massive vimanam attracts us from a distance of say 2 km. People gathered in large number to witness the great occasion. There was a separate enclosure in the outer prakaram, a temporary arrangement to cook rice for the occasion. Number of rice bags were there and the cooks were busy in their job.  Cooked rice was taken to the sanctum to perform abhishekam to the huge Linga Murthi of about 13 feet high.

Annabhishekam was started at about 10 A,M and was over by 4 p.m. amidst Veda Parayanam. This mega event was initiated by Kanchi Kamakoti Sankaracharya some decades ago and the devotees from different parts of the state continue to serve as volunteers and make this happen. Unlike in other places, devotees are allowed to have dharshan of the Deity even when the Annabhishekam is on. The Management must be thanked for allowing people to watch when the event is in progress. The rice covers the Murthi slowly and it is a delight to watch the entire process. The event , for sure, will be cherished for many years and remain in the minds as an unforgettable one.

Short Trips and Big Gains

It has always been a delightful and memorable pilgrimage whenever the places in Chola Kingdom are chosen.  Even the remote places where the transport is  scarcely available do not fail to provide immense pleasure on reaching the spots. Those who want to save time may very well go for a cab instead of waiting for the local transport. One should admit that the road condition has improved a lot though there is  scope for further improvement. But it may not be possible to find a full time archaka at many places as the same person may be serving at many places in his neighbourhood. Most of them possess mobile sets and it is therefore easy to inform them prior to the visit. Nevertheless, these Temples may be opened for visitors upto noon and again in the evening with the help of the caretakers.

It is always better to plan the route for the day which will cover all important Temples in the region. For example, a three hour trip around Kudavasal near Kumbakonam will take us to many less known Temples of that area. We may start from Sri Koneswara swami Temple at Kudavasal, sung by Sambandar and Appar.
A five minute drive from Kudavasal towards Thiruvarur will lead us to Ohai where we find the Temple of Sri Kailasanatha. Two south facing sannadhis are dedicated to The Goddess. The shrines of Ambal , called as Praanambikai and Gnanambikai are adjacent to each other. Information on how the place got the name "Ohai" and its  sthalapuranam could not be gathered as the proper person was not available at that time. We request the Temple authorities to display the details on a board so that the visitors come to know more about the Temple.

We reach Sellur after a drive of say  5 km . The Temple of Sri Gunambika Sametha Sri Kailasanatha presents a new look as it was renovated and consecrated two months back. Eight Lingams are seen in the prakaaram  near Subramanya shrine. The legend says that  Lord Kailasanatha was worshipped by Nakshatra Devathas and Chakambari Devi had performed the Puja with the flowers of "Nandhyavardham".
Thirukkollambudur, sung by Thirugnanasambandar is located about 2 km from Sellur. "Koovilam" is the Tamil name for Bilva Tree. The name Koovilambudur is said to have transformed as Kollambudur. Sri Soundaranayaki sametha Sri Vilvaaranyeswara Temple is one among the "Panchaaranya Sthalams" of this region , the other four being Avalivanallur, Thiruk- Karugavur, Haridwara Mangalam and Alangudi. Sthalapuranam suggests to undertake the Pilgrimage to all the five Temples by starting in the morning at Thirukarugavur and completing it at Kollambudur on the same day.

When Thirugnanasambandar visited the place with his followers, the river Vettar was in floods. Nobody dared to operate the boats to cross the river. Divine Grace blessed Sambandar to perform a miracle at that time. He sang a Thevaram Padigam in praise of the Lord of Kollambudur and stood inside the boat with his followers. The boat crossed the waters automatically and brought them to the other bank of the river.

Thereafter Sambandar and others went inside the Temple of Vilvavaneswara and worshipped. This event is held even now on Deepavali Amavasya Day when the idol of Sambandar is taken to the other side of the river and then brought to the Temple where the Deities of Vilwavaranyeswara and Soundara Nayaki give Dharshan to him. The Temple was renovated by Naattukotai Nagarathars some decades back. One should not miss the beautiful eyes of the Vrishaba vahanam here which shows  the mastery of the craft.

We need to go back to Sellur and proceed towards Koradachery after crossing a village called  Abhivirudheeswaram. Just before entering Koradachery, a road deviating from the main one , takes us to Pathur where the Temple is usually called as Nataraja Temple by the locals. The main deities at the Temple are Sri Viswanatha and Sri Visalakshi. The Priest comes here from Sellur to conduct daily Pujas.

We proceed towards Thiruvidaivasal after crossing the railway gate and the bazaar at Koradachery. Abhirami sametha Puyakotinatha is known for an important inscription. Unlike the inscriptions of other places, this one is nothing but a Thevaram Padhigam,sung by Sambandar during his visit. This inscription came to light only in the year 1917. Until then, the number of Thevara sthalams was 274 and with this finding  the number went up to 275. Ganapathi, Durga and other deities in the Devakoshtam are noteworthy.

The sculpture showing Ambal,holding Sambandar on her lap and offering Holy Milk is located at the entrance of Abhirami's sannadhi. The other sculpture depicting  Sambandar worshipping The God and The Goddess right on top of the main entrance is enchanting.

 

 The final point in this short trip was Enkann which could be accessed from Thiruvarur also. It is known as an important Shrine for Lord Subramanya although the Main Deties are Sri Brahmapureeswara and Sri Peria Nayaki. The south facing sannadhi of Subramanya is sung in Thirupugazh by Saint Arunagirinatha. The Deity is carved exceptional well in a sitting posture on a peacock with several arms in His hands. The four headed/eight eyed Brahma worshipped Lord Shiva  here,hence the name Ennkann. Itis also said that the sculptor who made the Deities of Shanmukha at Sikkil and Ettukudi was blinded by the King so that he could not make similar idols. The sculptor prayed Shanmukhanatha and made the idol here with Holy thoughts in the mind as eyes. So the place derived the name "Ennkann" and the Lord blessed the sculptor to regain his vision. People with poor vision pray to Subramanya at Ennkann  to get back their vision.

With a 3 km drive from Ennkann we rejoin Kumbakonam - Thiruvarur road beween Kaappanamangalam and Thalayalangadu. Another 5 km drive takes us back to Kudavasal via Puthukudi and Manjakudi to complete the circle. We suggest similar visits for those who are desirous to see less known Temples within 3- 4 hours on a holiday. The more the visits ,more courtesy will be the extended to the less privileged section of the public,namely the Archakas of rural Temples. There will be  scope for maintaining the Temples as well with the patronage extended. Yes, the short trips will result into big gains!

Burning with a Smile

The Legend at Thiruvadhigai is associated with “Thripurasamhara”, where Lord Shiva had destroyed the three forts of the demons, Tharakaksha, Kamalaksha and Vidyunmali. He did not just conquer the three forts of the Asuras but the three vices of ego, karma and illusion of Devas as well. The ever compassionate Lord revived the three asuras and made Tharakaksha and Vidyunmali as Dwarapalas and Kamalaksha was assigned the role of playing “Panchamukha Vadyam”. Shiva’s smile alone was sufficient to burn the three forts to reduce them into ashes.

The Temple at Thiruvadhigai, spread into seven acres isbelieved to be the place where the “Thripura Samhara” took place. It is located near Panrutti, in Cuddalore district of Tamilnadu. It has three concentric prakaras with a plethora of superb sculptures that depict the various forms of Shiva. The Thripura Samhara Thandavam and other karanas are seen sculptured brilliantly from the very entrance itself. The presiding deity is Veeratteswarar, a large, 16 faced Shivalinga. As the Temple belongs to the Pallava period, we find a stucco figure of Parvathi and Parameshwara in Kalyana(Marriage) posture.

A separate shrine known as Veeratteswarar Sabha, houses the Thripuranthaka murthi. He is shown to be standing with a bow in His hand, accompanied by the Goddess,Thripurasundari. The Lord also holds a deer, an arrow and a goad in the other hands. Another sub-shrine houses the famous Panchamukha Linga with four faces in the four cardinal directions and the fifth (athomukham), facing upwards.

Since Shiva had appeared here in a grand chariot, designed by the Devas, the entire central shrine of this Temple is built like a Chariot. The Vimana and the outer walls are filled with stucco figures, each depicting various scenes from Puranas. It is believed that this structured had inspired King Rajaraja for designing the famous Brahadeeswara Temple at Thanjavur. It is also stated that the very first Chariot built was during the occasion when the Lord went for “Thripura Samharam”.

Gedilam river that runs nearby is hailed in Periapuranam as equal to Ganges. A well inside the Temple known as Soola Theertham is said to cure diseases related to the stomach.

As the Goddess’ shrine is on the right of Veeratteswarar, many marriages are solemnized here. The Ambal is also called Peria Nayaki. There is also a popular belief among the devotees that the Lord removes the three vices of ego, karma and illusion. While applying Vibhuthi on the forehead, one has to bow his/her head which indicates that the ego is submitted in front of God.

Thevaram Trio of Sambandar,Appar and Sundarar have sung Hymns in praise of the Lord. In fact, the very first Thevaram Hymn originated here from Thirunavukkarasar(Appar) when he returned Home from Jain monks to rejoin Saivism. His sister Thilakavathi led him to the Sanctum and asked him to pray the Lord to cure him from the acute stomach pain he suffered at that time. There are two separate shrines inside the precincts of the Temple to honour both Appar and Thilakavathi.

During the annual Vaikasi Visakam festival, the Thripuranthaka murthi, seated in a chariot is taken to Kollidam.  The three forts, constructed with dried coconut and palm leaves are set to fire to mark the occasion. The deity returns to the Temple after the grand spectacle.

Before we enter the Main entrance, a 16 pillar Mandapam catches our attention. Stucco figures of Ganapathi,Subramanya are seen on both sides of Shiva and Parvathi in marriage posture. Images of Ganapathi, Dwara Palas and Nandi are seen in the 7 tier Rajagopuram behind the 16 pillar Mandapam.

As and when we enter the outer prakaram, we notice a Vasantha Mandapam on our right, facing south. Figures of Panchamukhs Shiva along with Parvathi on a bull flanked by Pathanjali and Vyagrapatha in worshipping posture are seen on top of this Mandapam. Ganapathi, seated on a mouse and Skandha on a Peacock are also seen on both sides of the Rishabarooda Murthi. A Theerthankara’s idol is also present in this prakaram. The Holy Pond, 

Soola Theertham is there opposite the Vasantha Mandapam.Images of Appar with folded arms, Sambandar receiving the Divine Milk from the Goddess and Sundarar arguing with the Lord with the Manuscript in his hand are depicted inside the arch at the entrance of the Tank. 

After worshipping near the Nandi and the flagpost, we enter the next prakaram through the 5 tier Rajagopuram that consists of images of Ganapathi, Skandha, Gangadhara, Bhikshadana, Urdhuvathandavamurthi, Kali and Nataraja. Figures at the top of Nataraja sannadhi are eye catching where we find the Lord performing Ananda Thandava witnessed by the Goddess Sivakamasundari, Pathajali and Vyagrapatha. The Nandi Mandapam in front of the Sanctum is a delight to watch. With Ganapathi and Subramanya sannadhis on both sides of the place, we enter the Mahamandapam through an entrance on the side. Veeratteswara, The 16 faced Lingamurthi gives Dharshan from here. We realize the fact that it is the same Murthi worshipped by Appar some 1500 years ago. It is also the same place where Thevaram had originated.

“Sarak konrai” is the Holy Tree of this Temple which is seen in the prakaram. A big Shivalinga is also seen near it. Uthsava Murthi Sannadhi of Thirunavukkarasar faces west. Moolavar of Appar in sitting posture is seen in a separate sannadhi. There is a separate sannadhi for Thilagavathi, sister of Appar is also nearby. She prayed the Lord to give back her brother who got converted to Jainism. Her prayer was answered and Saivism got an outstanding devotee too!

There is a separate flagpost in front of the Goddess,Brahan Nayaki. We start admiring the Chariot shaped Vimanam of Veeratteswara from here. It is filled with sculptures and stucco figures almost everywhere! The Vimanam is majestic and reminds us the one at the Big Temple in Thanjavur. The sthupi on top of the dome is simply marvelous.

On the sides of the walls of the Sanctum, one can see Ganapathi with disciples, Rama,Sitha and Lakshmana, Chandrasekara and Bhikshadana.

The minutely made Thripuranthaka will make the visitors cherish about the same for a very long time. He holds many arms including the Chakra in His hands. Vishnu, who came as a Bull to lift the Chariot is seen at the bottom. Brahma is seen at the driver’s seat. While many Devas looking anxiously at the Lord, Shiva single handedly destroyed the three forts by His smile. Warriors riding over the Lions, a typical Pallava presentation is praiseworthy.

Next we look at the image of Gajasamharamurthi dancing over the head of the elephant, Gajasura. The elephant’s skin is adorned over the Lord who holds many arms but destroyed the elephant with His nails by tearing its body.

Goshta figures are there on the backside of the sanctum which includes Lions, Dwarapalakas, Shiva resting His leg on the head of a Gana.

On the other side, we notice Ravana lifting Kailash, Paravathi and Parameswara on a Bull,row of Bhutha Ganas on top and sets of Lions.

The next figure of Ganga Visarjana Murthi and Saraba murthi are absorbing. Sarabeswara with jwala kesam setting foot over Narasimha is depicted beautifully.

A row of Shiva Lingas is seen on “Thirumaaligai paththi” the noticeable being a Panchamukha Lingam.

Being a treasure house for art-lovers and one among the group of Veerattaanams, Thiruvadhigai deserves more visitors than at present.