Siva Temples near River Arasalar

It is always a breath taking journey if we drive along the banks of a river when it is in full flow. The atmosphere becomes rich when we see green paddy fields all around and the adjoining groves that present a beautiful sight. It is true with tributaries of a major river like Cauvery in  south India. Normally the Siva Temples of Chola Kingdom are geographically identified by describing them as being north or south of the river. Umapathy Sivam,one of the Santhanacharyas who has authored eight books on Saiva Sidhantha , in his work called "Siva Kshetra Siva nama KaliVenba" gives the names of the Main deities of the Temples , sung in Thevaram Hymns which are located on both sides of the river.

 December to March are the ideal months to enjoy the beauty of the nature when farmers are busy with their harvest operations. The tributaries seem to be less polluted than the parent river as they rarely pass through major towns. A drive along the river Arasalar proved this point and takes us to various shrines of Lord Shiva located close to her banks. It is always difficult to cover the entire route of the river in a single trip as we are engaged in visiting the temples in parallel. Hence we divide the route according to our convenience and try to visit as many temples as possible in a trip.

We selected the middle portion of Arasalar this time and tried to cover temples on her southern banks. Kumbakonam can be the base from where the journey  be started. The first leg of the tour starts from Saakottai which is 5 km from Kumbakonam. The road divides into two at this place, one going towards Thiruvarur and the other one to Mannargudi.

We reach Kalayanallur which should be less than a km from Saakottai on Mannargudi road. This Temple is sung by Sundara Murthi Nayanar and the main deity is called Amrutha Gatehsvarar. A calm place though, the place is so serene that offers lot of peace to the visitors. Sundarar's Padhigam on the Lord is so beautiful that it narrates Shiva Parakramam in each Hymn.

Sivapuram is located 3 km away from Saakottai. It is also sung in Thevaram by Sambandar and Appar. The Main deity, Sivagurunatha was worshipped by Vishnu in the form of white pig. The shrines of Goddess Aryambha and Bhairava face south. The Rajagopuram in the front is imposing.

By driving on Thiruvarur road for about 5 km, we reach Arisil karai Puthur ,surrounded by paddy fields. Arasalar was called Arisil in Chola times. Thevaram differentiates clearly the exact locations of places having the same name. Puthur near Valangaiman which is on the banks of the river Kaduvai is called Kaduvaaikarai Puthur. The one near Sivagangai is called Thirupputhur. Similarly, Puthur near Saakottai is called Arisil Karai Puthur as it stands near the river Arisil . This Shine is sung by all the three acharyas in Thevaram. The Hymns also describe the sincerity of the then Temple priest, Pugazhththunaiyar, when severe drought struck the village that made everybody to desert the place. However the Priest determined to stay back and continue his service despite being hungry for days together. The Lord rewarded Pugazh thunai Nayanar a coin a day to drive away his poverty . The images of the Nayanar  and his wife are seen in the Mahamandapam of the west facing Temple.

Another 3 km drive along the same route takes us to Naraiyur( to be pronounced as நறையூர் and the one on Chidambaram - Kaattumannargudi road is pronounced as நாரையூர் ) which is on the outskirts of Naachiyar Koil. Sidheswara Swami Temple of Narayur also faces west. Sung by Sambandhar and Sundharar, this Temple belongs to Chola  period.

As we follow the river Arasalar, we need to take a diversion near Naachiarkoil bazaar and drive on Poonthottam road. Penuperundurai , sung by Sambandar is now called as Thiruppanthurai.  The Temple Tank is seen right in front of the main entrance. Two Ganapathis are seen in a small shrine near the entrance. As we enter the Temple, we come across Nandi,Bali peetam and then south facing Ambal Sannadhi. Mangalambikai, The Goddess presents a graceful look. The Moolavar in the Sanctum is known as Sivanandheswarar. As He is worshipped by Bala Subramanya, we notice the image of Subramanya  holding "dhandam" near the entrance of Swami Sannadhi, facing north.

Brahan nayaki Sametha Abathsahayeswara Temple of Vikrama Chola's period comes next at a village called Dukkachi named after Goddess Durga who  worshipped Lord Siva here. A completely ruined Temple is being renovated  but at a slow pace. This shrine is known for its beautiful  carvings ,most of them are vandalised. It remains to be seen how best the renovation is done without altering the original structure along with the inscriptions.

Romacha Rishi had worshipped Jambukaranyeswara at Koondhalur which is located on the same road. The Temple,Tank and the garden are maintained well. Saint Arunagirinatha has sung Thirupugazh on  Lord Subramanya of this place. Both Ganapathi and Subramanya shrines are seen in the front as against the usual places on the backside of the Sanctum. Goddess Anandhavalli faces south and it gives a great feeling when we have dharshan of Lord Subramanya,  seated on a peacock
.

Koondhalur and Pudhukkudi are Thevara vaippu sthalams in this route. Before proceeding to Pudhukkudi, we pay a visit to Karuvili, a great shrine about 1 km from the main road. Sathguneswarara of Karuvili is sung by Saiva Saint Appar. Goddess Sarvangasundhari  is tall and known to fulfil the desires of the devotees.devotees. Yama theertham is facing Temple.

Swetharanyeswara  Temple at Pudhukkudi, a  Thevara Vaippu sthalam wears a new look after the recent consecration. Though a small Temple, it should be admied for  good maintenance. The painter deserves commendations as the painting near the sudhai of Dhakshinamurthi is  nice to watch.

Sthalapuranam of Manavalanallur is linked to that of Thiruveezhimizhalai where Parvathi,as Kathyayani married Nethrarpaneswara also known as Veezhinatha.  This  is also a small temple with not many visitors from outside the village.

Thethiyur, once the home of great Pundits still carries the old memories. Meenakshi Sundareswara Temple  is on the middle of the village. As the priest was not available, the temple was seen locked. We were told about the Temples at Vishnupuram.  As it was already past noon, we wanted to avoid disappointment and postponed the visit to these places to a later date.

      

Temples at tail end of River Cauvery

The northern bank of the river Cauvery from Kallanai to Poompuhar has many Temples that are rarely visited. Even the tail end areas of Cauvery are blessed with green paddy fields and  other high yielding crops. The final part of the river carries green memories for the visitors  who look for such an atmosphere.

The journey from Mayiladuthurai to Poompuhar on the northern bank of the river covers a distance of about 25 km. The first leg of the visit on Mayiladuthurai- Poompuhar road starts with an unique "dharshan" of Medha Dhakshinamurthi at Sri Vadhanyeswara Swami Temple on the northern outskirts of Mayiladuthurai, close to Seerkazhi road. This part of the town is called as "Uththara Mayuram"in the Puranam.

When the Holy Bull thought with an ego that it was carrying the Lord, it was asked to do penance on the northern bank of Cauvery, Shiva appeared in front of the Bull along with Ganga Devi and blessed it on an Amavasya day in the Tamil month of Aipasi and blessed. Hence the Ghat here is called, Rishabha Ghat and usually called as Thula Ghattam. During the festive month of Thulam ( Aipasi), The Lord , Medha Dhakshinamurthi, seated on silver "kailasa Vahanam", followed by Ganga  Devi on Crocodile Vahanam gives Dharshan to all devotees every year. People take bath in Cauvery during this unique event.

 On the last day of the month, The Lord ,in the form of Somaskandha Murthi, flanked by Gnanambikai , Ganapathi, Subramanya and Chandikeswara give "Theerthavari" in the river. The Temple of Vadhanyeswarara ,usually called as "Vallalar Koil"faces west and on the Deva Ghoshta, we have dharshan of Sri Medha Dhakshinamurthi with Nandhi in font of Him. The sannadhi draws good crowd on Thursdays and in the Tamil month of "Karthigai" when Mahabhishekam is conducted for Medha Dhakshinamurthi.

When we proceed towards Poompuhar we find many villages close to the main road, each one of them having a historic Temple. The Temples of Pasupatheeswara at Pasupathi Agraharam and the one at Karum Kuyil Nathan Pettai are about 3 km from Mayiladuthurai. On the outskirts of Manakkudi, we find a temple,renovated in the recent past,situated very close to the road. Though small in size, the Temple dedicated to Sri Sivakamasundhari sametha Sri Chidambareswarar presents a  serene atmosphere with a good garden having many species of plants. Sri Sundhareswarar  Temple is another one to be visited in Manakkudi.

Proceeding  further for about 4 km, we arrive at a village called "Kanja Nagaram", a big village having Temples dedicated to Vishnu, Mariamman and Subramanya besides an imposing Temple for Lord Shiva. Though the Raja Gopuram is not there, the Temple is located in a sprawling site of the village. Both the Goddess Sri Thungabala Sthanambika and Sri Garthra Sundhareswara are tall deities , occupying separate sannadhis. Swami sanadhi, facing west has a big vimanam above the sanctum.

This village is associated with Manakkanjara Nayanar, one among the 63 Nayanars praised by Sri Sundhara Murthi Nayanar in his Thevaram Hymn.Therefore the village  was named after him as Kanja nagaram. We can see the deities of Manakkanjara Nayanar, his wife( called Kalyana Sundhari ), his daughter (called as Punya Vardhini) along with her husband, Eyarkon Kalikkaama Nayanar, another Nayanar,celebrated by Sundharar. The story of how Lord Shiva blessed both Manakkanjarar and his family is given in detail by Sekkizhar in his outstanding work, Periapuranam.  The same story is narrated at another place known as Anandha Thangdavapuram ( called as Kanjaru in Puranam) , some 5 km northwest of Mayiladuthurai. Panchavateeswarar Temple of this place is also having deities of Manakkanjarar and his family.Consecration is being planned for Gartha Sundhareswarar Temple in the coming year.

When we take a round of the sannadhis, we notice steps taking us to Sattanatha swami sannadhi on top. A dancing Ganapathi gives dharshan at the beginning of the foot steps.

The Subramanya Temple of Kanja nagaram is not far away from Gathra Sundhareswara Temple. Sri  Subramanya, seated on a peacock, flanked by Valli and Deivaanai occupies the sanctum. A Shiva Lingam in Mahamandapam  called "Paapa hareswarar " and Kasi Visvanatha in the outer Prakaram are important Siva sannadhis of this Temple. The shrine carries a newlook as it was renovated and consecrated quite recently.

On travelling further, we reach Karuvazhakarai , a famous pilgrim centre dedicated to the Goddess Mariamman,now called as Kamakshi. On the outskirts of this village starts another village called Marudur. One has to visit Sri Raja Rajeswara Swami Temple of this place to believe how best a good garden with so many species can be maintained well in the Temple complex. Name any tree or flower dedicated to Lord Shiva, we can see them here all due to the tireless effort of the Sivacharyar who deserves praise from one and all. The Temple was consecrated during last year but still awaits people in good numbers which alone can bring development . The locals should also support it so that it will boost the enthusiasm exhibited by the Sivacharyar.He can be contacted on 09597437157 to give prior intimation of your visit.

Vennai Eswaran Koil and Swayambunatha Swami Temple are at Melapathi , another village close by. The other Temples located at Manigramam, Thiruvenkadu, Keezha Peumpallam, Melap Peumpallam, Thalaich Sangadu, Chayavanam, Pallavaneeswaram ,Kadaimudi(Keezhaiyur)are not to be missed before reaching Poompuhar where the river Cauvery  enters  the sea.

Vedharanyam Temples

Before worshipping Lord Shiva at Vedaranyam, the four Vedas stayed at a place called Chathurvedapathi now known as Nalu Veda pathi, and collected flowers and garlands from a place called Pushpavanam for doing the Puja. Veda vanam also known as Vedaranyam attained the name because of the worship made here by the Vedas. As the main door was kept closed, people used to enter the sannadhi through the entrance at the side. It was only when the Saiva Saints Thirugnanasambandhar and Appar visited the place and sang Hymns in praise of the Lord, the Main doors opened and closed for regular worship for all.

Vedaranyam is located 45 km from Nagapattinam; 35 km from Thiruthuraipoondi;63 km from Thiruvarur; about 100 km from Kumbakonam. The nearest airport is Tiruchirappalli which is about 135 km away. Although bus services are available to reach Vedaranyam ,it is better to go by car if one has to visit the nearby places like Agasthiyanpalli, Ramar Patham,Kodikkarai,Pushpavanam and Naluvedapathi.

There stands a 5 tier Rajagopuram at the entrance of Vedaranyeswarar Temple which faces east. The sea is around 1 km east of the Temple. At the sannadhi street corner, we see the dilapidated wooden chariot left uncared. It is said that the Temple management is arranging to get a new wooden car in the near future.

Ganapathi sannadhi at the westen Tower has a legend behind it. Lord Rama,caught by "Veea Hathi", a sin caused by killing a demon , worshipped Ganesa here and the Lord kiked the "Hathi" with His leg and Rama was freed from the sin. Hence Ganesa of this sannadhi is called "Veera Hathi Chetha Ganapathi".

The outer Prakaram consists of an exclusive shrine for the Goddess, known as Veda Nayaki. She is also called as Veena vaadha Vidhooshini in Sanskrit and Yaazhaip Pazhiththa Mozhiyaal in Tamil. This Sannadhi,one of the Shakthi Peetams, with a small Gopuram is to the left of Swami Sannadhi.

As we enter the Eastern Prakaram, we find the Temple Tank, Manikarnika, which is as Holy as Ganga,Yamuna.Cauvery,Narmadha and Sindhu. People take bath in large numbers during New Moon days and auspicious occasions like Mahalayam , Lunar and Solar eclipses. There is a small shrine for Kala Bhairava facing the Tank.

The next Prakaram has sannadhis for Saint Sundharar facing Thyagaraja , sixtythree Nayanmars, "Kaakshi Koduthavar" , Sthala Ganapathi, Subramanya,Gajalakshmi, Saraswathi Devi (in huge form), Gajalakshmi and Southfacing Durga Devi. Navagrahas are looking at the same direction. It is said they curiously look at the Newly wedded Divine Couple of Parvathi and Parameswara. The four Saiva Acharyas look at the Supreme Dance of Lord Shiva.

 The sanctum is on a slightly elevated platform. The Divine couple who gave dharshan to Saint Agasthya can be seen behind the swayambu Lingam , Sri Vedaranyeswarar.  When all Devas ,Rishis and others attended the Marriage of Parvathi- Parameswara at Kailash, the Mountain tilted down and it was at that time Lord Shiva asked Sage Agasthya to go to south to balance the earth. Agasthya went to south and the eath returned to normal. As the sage had missed to witness the Divine wedding , The Lord showed it to the Rishi at Vedaranyam.

Vedaranyam is one of the saptha vidanga sthalams and the Vidanga Pooja is held twice in a day. Vanni, the sthala vruksham is seen in the Prakaram. The fruits of the tree are long with thorns on only one side . 29 day Masi Magam festival in May-June is conducted every year when the Deities visit the sea shore on Masi Magam day for "Theerthavari". The sea at this point is called "Veda Nadhi/ Veda Theertham". Vedaranyeswarar is praised in Thevaram Hymns by all the three acharyas. Thirugnanasambandhar sang "Kolaru Padhigam"here before going to Pandya Kingdom at the invitaion of Pandya Queen Mangayarkarasi.

Agasthya was performing Siva Pooja at a place near Vedaranyam and it got the name after the Rishi as Agasthianpalli. It is on the way to Kodikarai ,about 2 km from Vedaranyam. Sambandhar has sung a Padhigam on the Main Deity of the Temple. Agasthya did penace here to have dharshan of the wedded couple. Agni Pushkarani is in front of the temple. Ambikai (Bagam Piriyaal)faces south. There is a separate shrine for Sage Agasthya. Agasthya theertham is on the western side . Vanni is the sthala vruksham of this temple which is seen in the prakaram. Chola and Pandya inscriptions and found in the Temple. Naattukottai Nagarathars have renovated the Temple.

Kodi Kuzhagar Temple at Kodikarai is close to the main road. As it is surrounded by the forest area,not many houses are seen around this area. Saivaite Saint Sundharar refers to the loneliness of this place in his Thevaram padhigam sung on the Lord. The Temple has a Rajagopuram in the front and one prakaram around the sanctum. Anjanakshi sametha Amruthakateswara (Kodi Kuzhagar) temple of Kodikaai has a Subramanya shrine in the prakaram where the Lord holds Amrutha kalasa in one of His hands. Saint Arunagirinatha has sung Thirupugazh in praise of this moorthi.

Madhurabhashani sametha Sugantha vaneswara Swami Temple at Pushpavanam is a temple not to be missed by devotees who visit Vedaranyam. It is located on the way to Nagapattinam . The temple at Pushpavanam is well maintained as the Temple priest who resides nearby takes active paricipation in developing it. The Nandhavanam in the Prakaram aims to justify the name of the place and the name of The Lord as well. There are plans to develop the Nandhavanam further to house more flowering plants.

Aaduthurai Temples

Our ancestors had clearly distinguished similar names of different places mostly by adding a prefix. But the present trend is to shorten the names of places and persons. For instance, the name Thiruchchirappalli is shortened as Trichy which carries no meaning at all. There are places where the shortened form of the original name does not affect the meaning much. Paandikkodumudi is called as Kodumudi now but still sounds meaningful. It is true with the case of Mylapore when it is called as Mayilai.

There are places with similar names such as Thirumullai voil (the one near Chennai  and the other near Sirkazhi). Likewise we have the name Aduthurai at two places,the one on Kumbakonam- Mayiladithurai road and the other on Kumbakonam- Thiruvaiyaru road. While Thevaram Hymns have clearly identified the former located on the southern banks of river Cauvery, the later on the northern banks. Hence the Thevaram text address them as "Then Kurangaduthurai" and "Vada Kurangaduthurai". Unfortunately, we have shortened the name as Aduthurai and apply it to both these places, giving rise to confusion.

"Then Kurangaduthurai"got the name as Lord Shiva was worshipped here by Sugreeva,the vanara King. The word "Kurangu"refers to monkey in Tamil.  It is located some 17 km from Kumbakonam. The Temple ,built by Sembiyan Maadevi,the Chola Queen. It has a 5 tier Rajagopuram in the front. We have dharshan of Ganapathi, Subramanya,Dhakshinamurthi , Durga and Chandikeswara in the first Prakaram.The main Deity in the sanctum is called Aabhathsahayeswarar  and the Goddess is known as Pavalakkodi.Fifteen inscriptions are available here that belong to Chola and Pandya period. Thirugnanasambandhar and Appar have sung Thevaram Hymns in praise of the Lord. Deva Koshtams include Agasthya,Nataraja and Bhikashadana.

Vadakurangaduthurai is 21 km from Kumbakonam and 10 km fom Thiruvaiyaru. This Temple is managed by Thanjavur Devasthanam. A 5-tierd Rajagopuram presents a majestic look at the entrance. On entering the outer Prakaram we find Panchamurthi Mandapam and Ambal Sannadhi A very big Cow shed is seen in this Prakaram that reminds us the good number of cows gifted to the Temple in the olden days. When we cross the second entrance,we reach the Mahamandapan where we see murthis of Shaiva Acharyas, "Settippenn",Saneeswara and Bhairava. The second Prakaram has Sannadhis for Ganesa,Subramanya and Maha Lakshmi.

Terracotta figures of of Vali worshipping Shiva Linga and The Lord blessing the pregnant "Setti"lady by offering a tender coconut to quench her thirst are seen on Swami Vimanam. Garbagra Koshta figures are those of Dhakshinamurthi,Lingothbava and Adhanareeswara which are beautifully carved.We also see coconut tree as  Sthala Vruksham  in this Prakaram.  Nataraja & Sivakami give Dharshan as stone sculptures in Nataraja Sabhai.

Big sculptures of Dwara Palakas stand at the entrance to the Sanctum. The Lord is called as Dhayanidheeswarar and the Goddess as "Azhagu sadaimudi ammai" Thirugnanasambandhar has sung Thevaram Hymns on Dhayanidheeswarar.Inscriptions of Chola and Pandya Emperors are found on the walls of the shrine.

One can easily cover both the places on a single day by staying at Kumbakonam where boarding and Lodging facilities are available at affordable rates.

Innambar and Thiruppurambiyam Temples

People normally visit shrines which they think are popular and important. Many times they skip places unknown to them even if they pass through them. Tour operators also plan to cover only those “important” places. The less known temples are thus left to the visits of few souls who consider all ancient shrines alike. If we take Kumbakonam – Thanjavur route for example, the often sought places are those in Kumbakonam town and Swamimalai. How many of us visit equally important Temples at Thiruvalanchuzhi and Nallur? Less said the better if we talk about those numerous temples en route which are left unnoticed. Not far away from Kumbakonam are the great Temples at Innambur and Thiruppurambiyam which can be easily covered within few hours if stationed at Kumbakonam.

Sekkizhar,the great Saivaite poet describes the route taken by Sundharamurthi Nayanar from Pazhayarai to Thiruppurambiyam by mentioning the places en route. After completing the pilgrimage to “Kongu Naadu’, Sundharar returned to Chola Naadu by reaching Karkudi, a place near Thiruchirappalli and sang Thevaram Hymns on The Lord. Then he went to Pazhaiyarai, one of the capital Cities of Chola Kingdom and worshipped at Aarai Metrali, located on the western side of Pazhayarai Town, very close to Patteeswaram and Thiruchathimutram. The Temple at Aarai Metrali is on an elevated platform, not looked after so well.

Then he proceeded to Innambar now known as Innamboor. The road from Patteeswaram joins Thanjavur road near Thiruvalanchuli at a distance of 3 km. The wonderful Temple at Thiuvalanchuli is about 1 km from the famous abode of Subramanya at Swamimalai. The road from Swamimalai to Kumbakonam has a diversion at a place called Puliyancheri from where one has to travel 2 km to reach Innambar and 3km thereafter to reach Thiruppurambiyam.

Sundharamuthi Nayanar on his pilgrimage from Pazhayarai to Thiruppurambiyam would have surely visited the famous Temple at Thiruvalanchuzhi. Since the palm leaves of Thevaram Hymns could not be recovered fully, Sundharar’s Thiruvalanchuli Padhigam might have been lost among them. His next place of visit during this pilgrimage was Innambar and here also we are not fortunate to get his Hymns sung on Swayambunatha Swami of this place. However, he mentions about this place while proceeding to Thiruppurambiyam. The first verse of this Padhigam reflects the disappointment he faced when he did not receive enough attention from The Lord of these places. Hence he decided to console himself and proceeded to Thiruppurambiyam. This is how the Hymn goes:

"அங்கம் ஓதி ஓர் ஆறை மேற்றளி நின்றும் போந்து வந்து இன்னம்பர்த்  

தங்கினோமையும் இன்னது என்றிலர் ஈசனார் எழு நெஞ்சமே                                             

கங்குல் ஏமங்கள் கொண்டு தேவர்கள் ஏத்தி வானவர் தாம் தொழும் 
பொங்கு மால்விடை ஏறி செல்வப் புறம்பயம் தொழப் போதுமே." 

The origin of the name Innambar is not clearly known. There are similar names that sound almost alike such as Ambar, Athambar ae there in Chola Kingdom. In this case, the prefix “ in “ distinguishes this place from Ambar which is near Poonthottam. Innambar is the 45^th Temple on the northern bank of the river Cauvery. The east facing Temple has a five tier Rajagopuram at the entrance. On entering the outer prakaram, we find the shrine of the Goddess Sugantha Kunthalambikai facing south. The Temple’s garden (Nandhavanam) is also there in this prakaram. We enter the Main sannadhi by crossing the second entrance. Naattukottai Nagarathar community has renovated Swami sannathi and the inner prakaram. It presents a new look after the recent renovation and consecration. A huge Gajabrushta vimanam adores the sanctum.

After crossing the Mahamandapam we get the dharshan of Swayambunathaswami from ardhamandapam. The Lord in the form of Mahalingam is huge and the avudayar is also huge in size. It is definitely an unforgettable dharshan which one should not miss. In fact we can visit this place as many times as possible in our lifetime to have a glimpse of this Murthi. Since He is worshipped by Airavatha, the white Elephant of the Devas, He is also known as Airavatheeswara. The Temple pond opposite the Temple is called Airavatha Theertham. The Lord has taught Tamil Grammar to the great sage Agasthya in this place. The legend also says that the Lord appeared in human form and submitted the accounts of the Temple to the King. Hence He is called Aksharapureeswara in Sanskrit and Ezhuththariyum Peruman in Tamil. Appar’s Thevaram Hymn says that The Lord takes down the names of those who worship Him with flowers and also those who ignore Him. Sambadhar has also sung Hymns in praise of this Lord.

On the right of Swami sannadhi, there is yet another sannadhi for the Goddess. As this represents the married form of Shiva- Shakthi, the Goddess is known as Nithyakalyani. The devakoshtas are also absorbing and positioned at an elevated level. Nataraja in stone is small but crisp. The sthala vruksham  (tree) is said to be senbakam. Inscriptions of Chola and Vijayanagar period describe the donations made by the emperors in the name of the Temple. A chola inscription calls this place as “vadakarai Innambar naattu Innambar”

Thiruppurambiyam  is located 3 km from Innambur and Sakshinathaswami Temple of this place is praised by all the four acharyas of Saiva sect. Incidentally, this was the battle field of the Cholas in 9^th Century.It is said that Aditha I built this Temple in memory of his victory and called it as Adhitheswaram.

During the days of deluge when the whole world was about to be submerged in the ocean, Brahma worshipped Lord Ganapathi. He made an idol of Ganesa with crab shell and sea weeds. Lord Shiva had deputed Ganesa to save the world from extinction. This is the reason why Ganapathy of this Temple is called “Pralayam Kaatha Ganapathi” On Ganesh Chathurthi day, Abhishekam is done with honey for Ganapathi and it is a miracle that the honey thus offered never comes out of the Deity. Pralayam stood at the outskirts of this town and therefore the place attained the name “Purambiyam” The word “puram” (புறம்) in Tamil denotes this meaning. (ஊரின் புறத்தே வெள்ளம் நின்றதால் புறம்பியம் ஆயிற்று)

This village is surrounded by river Manniyar on the east, Kollidam on north and Cauvery on south. Sthalapuranam mentions this place as Kalyanapuram and Punnaagavanam. There is a separate shrine fo Sri Dhakshinamuthi near the entrance. Special mention is made about this deity by Sambandhar and Manickavasagar. This is also one of the famous places of Lord Dhakshinamurthi. The imposing 5 tier Rajagopuram faces east and the adjacent outer prakaram has an alankara mandapam that houses Guhambika sannidhi. The Goddess Ikshu rasabhashani ( karumbadu sollammai) faces south in a separate shrine in the same prakaram. The second prakaram has Saivacharya sannadhi and Ganapathi, Somaskandha, Subramanya, Lingas worshipped by Agathya, Pulasthya, Sanakathi rishis and Vishvamitra on Thirumaligaipaththi.

Many murthis in Deva koshtas have suffered extensive damage in the hands of anti-socials. The sculpture of Kalsamharamurthi has been nearly destroyed. It calls for proper protection to all monuments.

Sthala vruksham is “punnai”which is seen on the north-west side of the prakaram. On the south east of Mahamandapam of swami sannadhi is a shrine for Pralayam kaatha Ganapathi. The swayambu murthi is also worshipped by Varuna. Abishekam for this murthi is carried out only once in a year – on Vinayaka Chathurthi day.

Dwarapalakas stand at the entrance of Sri Sakshinatha swami. Vanni, well and Sivalinga of this place appeared in Madurai to give evidence for the marriage that took place in Thiruppurambiyam between a merchant of Madurai and a girl of Puhaar. Hence the Lord is known as Sakshinatha. As the sage Dhuvasa had cursed Haridwaja, a Magatha King became sick. He got rid of the disease when he reached Thiruppurambiyam and worshipped the Lord. Himavan,Drona,Viswamitra ,Sugeeva, to name a few, have worshipped the Lord to be blessed by Him.

Inscriptions dating from the period of Rajakesai varman to Kulothunga Chola are found in this temple.

Renovation work is on at this Temple in full swing. The involvement of Sivacharya of this Temple is tremendous. Knowing fully that it required huge sum to renovate the temple, he narrates the visitors about the importance of the temple and calls for their assistance. Many donors come forward to give building materials and some others involve themselves in repairing the vahanams, painting the walls and providing backup inverter. Plastering the outer wall is the only giant work remaining. With hopes pouring from all directions, the Sivacharya is optimistic to conduct the consecration ceremony at the earliest. We need people like him at all village temples so that the devotees are briefed properly and involved as well in maintaining/renovating the shrines.     

Temples on the banks of Coovam

A pilgrimage on the banks of the river Coovum may appear funny for many persons as the region does not receive the attention that it deserves.. The interesting pilgrimage of the region can be centered at Thiruvallur where facilities such as boarding and lodging are available. It is well connected to places like Arakonam  and Chennai on the Railway map. A thirty minute drive from Thiruvallur takes us to Coovum, named after the river which originates at this place. Thevaram Hymn sung by Thirugnanasambandar mentions this place as Thiruvirkolam and Koogam.  While SanathKumara Samhithai of Skandha Maha Puanam describes the importance of this place, Sthala Puranam in Tamil was written by the great Thuraimangalam Sivaprakasa Swamigal some 800 years before.He has narrated the Puranam in about 700 verses  The river Coovum originates from a lake ,North of  the Temple. Another Temple which is sung by Sambandar , called Ilambayankottur is located on the other side of the lake. The Sthalpuranam mentions the river Coovum as " Paali "
{ " புண்ணிய தீர்த்தம் பாலி அல்லது புவியில் யாதோ? } Such a Holy river gets polluted once it approaches the Metro City of Chennai ! Another Tamil Literature called Ammanai calls the place as Thiru vIrkolam as a place surrounded by 24 " Cheris " like  kumaara cheri on the west, Irulancheri on nothwest, Kondancheri on north, Keezhacheri on East, Koovumcheri on the South. { " நாலாறு சேரி நடுவே திருவிற்கோலம் பாலாறு சூழ்ந்த பதியது காண் அம்மானை." } The number also refers 24 divisions of Manavoor . It also refers to 24 villages around Koovum including Narasingapuram, Pichchivakkam, Pudhumaavilangai, Pinjivaakkam, Mappedu, Pillayar Kuppam    from where the people serve the Temple even now. Holy water is brought from the beds of Koovum to perform Abhishekam to the Main Deity of Coovum Temple. Those beds are called "Thirumanjanak Kuzhi" Special mention may be made to the devotees of Pinjivaakkam who bring Cow's milk and flowers for the Noon Puja and those from Pudhumaavilangai who serve the Temple on Padhosham days.

The well maintained Temple at Coovum with a 5-tier Raja Gopuram can be seen as and when we enter the village amidst paddy fields.The legend says that the three forts of  Tharakaksha,Kamalaksha and Vidyunmali were destoyed by the smile of Lod Shiva although He started to fight against the Rakshasas by boarding a chariot. As the Devas failed to worship Lord Ganapathi at this juncture, He broke the axle of the Chariot. Hence He got the name "Achiruththa Vinayaka". His shrine is seen inside the Temple. Lord Shiva blessed all Devas when He appeared before them by holding a bow and arrow in His hands. The Main deity is therefore called Thripuranthaka and the Goddess as Thripura Sundhari. The Sanctum faces east and on the right side is the shrine of the Goddess also facing east. The Main Deity is considered to be too Holy and the priests never touch the Murthi with their hands. Hence people call Him as " Theendaath Thirumeni"

 Mappedu is hadly 15 minutes driving distance from Koovum. The Temple is close to the highway and presents a renovated look. The main entrance is beautifully carved on both sides and on top of it is a 5 tier Rajagopuram. The Temple which belongs to Chola period is dedicated to Lord Sringeeswara , worshipped by Sringi Muni. The vimanam over the sanctum carries many images of Lord Shiva such as Dhakshinamurthi, Bhikshadana, Anandha Thandava Murthi, Sivakami, Oordhuva Thandava Murthi and Karaikkal Ammai . The sanctum is on a raised platform. Pushpakuchambika Sannadhi is on the outer prakaram.

Sri Thayinum Nallal sametha Sri Kalinga natha swami Temple at Irulanjeri is 2 km away from Coovam. It is said that this place was called Irungalur and mentioned in Appar's Thevaram as Iraiyancheri. However, this claim has to be studied further. It is a small Temple surrounded by paddy fields. A dilapidated Mutt of Devar Singa Adheenam is seen near the Temple. Inscriptions that belong to the period of Rajaraja III are also found in the Temple.

There are many Siva Temples in and around Perambakkam, which is 2 km away from Irulanjeri. Kasi Viswanatha Temple in the town is amidst many houses but wholly neglected. Deities are housed in s make shift Temple. Si Kamakshi sametha Cholzheeswara Temple is a "Parihara Sthalam" where people come in large numbers on mondays to get rid of health related problems like neurological and orthopaedic disorders. The Temple is located in a serene atmosphere.

Mangaleswara Swami Temple on the outskirts of Perambakkam is in an isolated place. Only the Lingamurthi and Nandhi are remaining. The Lingam is placed on a platform and the Nandhi is seated in front of Him. Thick bushes and trees stand helplessly by surronding the Lord. The locals should take up the construction of the Temple with the help of philanthropists from outside.

Sri Kamakshi sametha Si Ishtasidhi Lingeswara Temple is yet another Temple on the way to Chitrambakkam. The renovated Temple is close to the road and the locals come in the evenings to offer worship.

Sri Kumbeswara Temple at Chitrambakkam is being renovated and the job is likely to be completed in another few months. Sri Kumbeswara Murthi in the Balalayam is a massive Shiva Lingam. It is heartening to find some well wishers over there to mobilise support from outside.

Sri Janamejayeswara Temple at Senji , close to Chitrambakkam is in a pathetic condition . The whole granite structure is threatened by wild growth of plants. Nobody seems to have bothered to protect the ancient shrine The residents near the Temple should take up the task of rebuilding and saving the old Temple without further delay.

One can cross the railway gate near Kadambathur and reach the local Temple. Si Muktheeswara Temple of this place enjoys local support and well maintained. Another isolated Temple near the place is Saatharai where we find a quiet shrine dedicated to Sri Vedhanayaki sametha Sri Vasishteswara. The Linga Murthi is a big one and it is unfortunate that  we do not find many worshipers here.

The Temple at Koyambedu, now a part of Chennai city is also located near the river Coovam. An otherwise quite Temple took new shape and started to attract many devotees since the last decade. It is worshipped by Lava and Kusa , sons of Lord Rama and the Lord is therefore called as Lucha Lavapureeswara . Saint Arunagirinatha has sung a Hymn on Lord Subramanya here.

Nerkunram is a "Thevara Vaippu Sthalam" , located close to the highway leading to Poonamalli. One must be lucky to have dharshan of the Deites here because the Temple is mostly closed except during the Puja time in the morning. But the Temple is in a good condition and the greenery around it presents an awesome picture. Nerkunravaanar of this place had written Thiruppugalur andhadhi , a celebrated  work in Tamil Literature in praise of Lord Agneeswara of Thirupugalur.

Noombal Agastheeswara Temple is almost covered on all sides by high rise buildings of companies and it is better to enquire at street corners to reach the Temple. Noombal just before Karaiyanchavadi/Poondhamalli and the Temple is an ancient one. Gaja Brishta vimanam is seen on Moolavar's garbagrugam and the Temple is said to attract lot of devotees on festive days.
One may wind up the pilgrimage of Shiva Temples on the banks of Coovam at the last destination at Poondhamalli Vaidhyanatha Swami Temple. Sculptures at the Main entrance convey the message that the Historic Temple was under the care of many rulers.