Temples near Thiruvarur - III

Cauvery Delta is not only blessed with vast green fields ,best described as "granery of South", but with numerous Temples on her banks. On the southern bank of Cauvery we have as many as 127 Shiva Temples sung in Thevaram Hymns. This number is based on what is available today. Many Palmleaf manuscripts carrying Hymns on other places might have been lost or destroyed by pests during storage. Hence it is equally important to visit those ancient Temples, for which Thevaram Hymns are not available. While we plan to write more on them in the next post, we continue to write about the shrines close to Thiruvarur as third part in this series.

Gayakarai (now called Gekarai) is about 4 km north of Thiruvarur from where a diversion takes us to a place called Palliyin Mukkoodal, sung by Appar in his Thevaram. Minibuses from Thiruvarur ply upto this place,though not frequently.One can also alight at either Kodikal Palayam or Virkudi railway stations , if the rail route (Mayiladuthurai - Thiruvarur) is preferred ( At present, gauge conversion work is on and it is better to go by road.) Lord Rama is said to have performed rituals for his father ,King dasaratha here as this place and theertham are regarded on par with Gaya. Like in thriveni sangam (at Allahabad),where three rivers meet, "Mukkoodal Theertham" infront of the Temple is considered equally Holy. The east facing Temple , renovated by Naattukkottai nagarathar has just one Prakaram. Nandi, facing the Sanctum has turned its head slightly. The Murthis of Ganapathi, Subramanya and Lakshmi in the Prakara are extraordinarily beautiful. According to Thiruvarur Puranam, a Chola King who never missed a Shiva Dharshan before taking meals, reached late at this place and found that the Temple was closed by that time. His assistant who came in a horse, decorated a bag containing horse- feed as Shiva linga and kept it in front of the King. Thinking that it was a Linga, the King worshipped it and took dinner that night. He came to know the fact on the next day and tried to lift the bag. He could not succeed as the contents of the bag really transformed into a Linga.There goes another story in the Purana that Lord Parvathi appeared as daughter to a Queen called Thapovadhani on a Lotus and The Lord married her later.

The journey covering a distance of 3- 4 Km from Palliyin Mukkodal will lead us to Virkudi. It is one of those eight "Veerattanams" where Shiva is worshipped as "Samhara Murthi". In Virkudi, we find Samhara Murthi Sabhai wherein The Lord holds a "Chakra" in His hand. This place is 2 Km away from Virkudi railway station. One can also alight at Gangalanchery on Sannanallur - Thiruvarur bus route and walk down for 3 Km. The Temple is west facing and Naattukkottai nagarathars of Pallathur have renovated it. There is a 5 tier Gopuram at the entrance and the shrine has two Prakarams. Goddess Parimala Nayaki ( Elavar Kuzhali) sannadhi is close to Veeratteswara Swami sannadhi. This is the place where Shiva killed Jalandhara Asura,the son of Samudra Raja. The Asura married Brinda ,the daughter of Kalanemi and then started terrorising the Devas. He defeated Vishnu and Indra took asylum at Kailash. Finally, Shiva killed the demon with His chakra and the Chakra returned to the Lord after meeting the purpose. Sambandar has sung a Thevaram Padigam praising the deity of this place.

Thirukkondeeswaram and Nannilam are two places sung in Thevaram which can be accessed by road. A ten- minute drive from nannilam will take us to Thirukkondeeswaram, sung by Appar. This place is fondly worshipped by Parvathi who took the form of Cow by pouring milk over the Shiva Linga.The name of the deity is therefore known as Pasupatheeswara. The Goddess is named as Santha Nayaki and this Temple on the southern banks of the river, Mudikondan has a tank called Ksheera Pushkarani and the Holy tree is Vilvam.

The Temple at Nannilam is right on the heart of the town. It is otherwise known as Devaranyam, Sundaravani, Bruhathpuram in Sanskrit. Ko Chnkat Chola has built this "Madakkoil", constructed on a raised platform. Sundara Murthi Swamigal in his Thevaram Hymn has mentioned about this. Defying the Asuras, the Devas took the form of bees and found asylum here. Hence the place, the Moola murthi and the Goddess are called as "Madhuvanam", "Madhuvaneswarar" and "Madhuvana Nayaki" respectively.

Sri Vanchiyam, one of the Mukthi Kshetrams is located about 6 km from Nannilam on Kumbakonam road. A deviation at Achuthamangalam takes us straight to the temple. Vishnu worshipped Shiva here to be beloved with Mahalakshmi. Hence the deity got the name, Vanchinatha. Brahma, Parachara, Athri, Makudavardhana, and Charumathi have also been blesssed by Shiva at this place. A 5-tier Raja gopuram welcomes the visitors at the Eastern entrance. A unique feature at this shrine is the presence of a Sannadhi for Yama. There is an "Yama Vahanam" at this Temple, over which the Utsava idol is seated and decorated during the festival in the Tamil month of "Masi". Since the Lord is said to bless all souls who die here to attain salvation, Yama has no role to punish the sinners.All three Acharyas have sung Thevaram verses in praise of Vanchinatha. Saint Manickavachakar has also referred this place along with the name of the Goddess as "Maruvar Kuzhali" in Thiruvachakam. The second entrance also has a 3- tier Gopuram and Ambal sannadhi can be seen on the right. We enter swami prakaram after crossing the third entrance. This prakaram has sannadhis that belong to ganapathi, Shanmukha, Pancha bootha Lingas, Gaja Lakshmi, Bhairava, Shani, Lingas of Mukthi kshetras etc. An exclusive east facing Durga sannadhi is seen in north Prakara. Shiva is said to have created the Temple Tank, Guptha Gangai with his Trisoolam.. Ganga Devi is said to have washed off the sins she received from devotees at Kashi by bathing at this Holy Tank,which is also known as Punya Theertham, Athri Theertham, Parachara Theertham and Muni Theertham in all the four yugas. Hundreds of people take bath here on Sundays during the Tamil month of "Karthigai". Inscriptions of Chola, Pandya and Naick period are seen here which glorifies this place as " Raja Gambeera Chathurvedhi Mangalam".

Thiruppugalur can be reached from Nannilam/ Sannanallur by road(7 Km) that leads to Karaikal. Since Agni has worshipped Shiva here, the Lord is called Agneeswarar. Banasura, a great Shiva devotee tried to lift this Linga to be taken to his mother's place failed in his attempt. However, the Lord tilted in the same place and got the name, "Kona Piraan". The deity is sung in Thevaram by all the three Acharyas. Saint Appar attained Mukthi on a Chithirai sadhayam day. This event is celebrated every year elaborately during this period. When Sundarar came for dharshan, the Temple was undergoing renovation. He kept few bricks to support his head and started taking rest outside the temple. When he started collecting the cloth spread over the bricks, he found that the bricks were converted as golden blocks by Agneeswara's grace. On seeing the miracle, he sang a "Padhigam" with tears rolling from his eyes. The Temple has a 5 - tier gopuram in the front and a 3-tier gopuram at the second entrance. There is one more shrine close to the shrine whch was served by Muruga Nayanar. It is called Vardhamaneeswaram and Sambandar's Padhigam is there on this deity. Agni Theertham covers the Temple on three sides. Punnagam (Punnai) is the sthala vruksham of the Temple.

Sowrirajaperumal Temple at Thirukkanapuram is hardly 1 km south of Thiruppugalur. Both the tank and the Temple at this place are very big in size.On the eastern side of Thirukkanapuram, a Shiva Temple, sung by Sambandar is located at Ramanadheeswaram. The renovation work which was started many years ago appears to have been almost completed. After defeating Ravana, Rama worshipped Shiva at Rameswaram and Ramanadheeswaram.Hence the tank is also named after Rama as "Rama Theertham". Kulothunga Chola has gifted lands of Sivapathasekaramangalam for the maintenance of this Temple and renovated it. The inscription mentions about a period in which there was no income from the lands of this temple due to severe draught and the Temples at Rararaja Pondy Mangalam, Veera Chola Mandalam Jayamkonda Chola Mandalam and Naduvilnadu were asked to assist Ramanadheeswaram Temple by sending Paddy and Gold.This message should be an eyeopener to all administrators who do nothing when the temples reel under poor income.

Temples Near Thiruvarur - Part II

Absorbed by the divinity of Vidanga Murthi, woshipped by King Musukuntha, Devendra asked Visvakarma to make six more Vidangas resembling the one at Thiruvarur. With the Divine Grace of Thyagaraja, Musukunda identified the original Vidanga among the group of seven Vidangas. The disappointed Indra was convinced later by the Lord and asked to worship them in six places around Thiruvarur namely, Thirukaravoil, Thiruvoimur,Thirukuvalai(Thirukkolili), Thirunallaaru,Vedaranyam and Nagapattinam. These Temples are therefore known as "Saptha Vidanga Sthalams"

Thirukkolili (Thirukkuvalai) is 35 km southwest of Thiruvarur. Buses are available from Thiruvarur and Kachanam on Thiruthuraipundi road. The nearest railway station is at Thirunellikkaval, 20 km from this place. Since Navagrahas {"Kol"} have worshipped Shiva here and stand in the same row unusually , those who visit this place are believed to get rid of "Navagraha Dhosha". Since the effect of Graha is nullified/reduced the place got the name, "Kol ili" Both Swami and Ambal sannadhis face East. Thyagaraja sannadhi is on the right of Sanctum where Brahmapureeswara is the main deity.Bheema freed himself from the "Dhosha" of killing Bagaasura by worshipping at Thirukkuvalai. Inscriptions date back to the period Kulothunga Chola and Sadaya Varman Sundara Pandian are found in this Temple.They talk about their donations offered to oil the lamps inside the Temple.

Lord Brahmapureeswara of Thirukkuvalai is sung in Thevaram Hymns by all the three acharyas. Sundara Murthi Nayanar was feeding Shiva Devotees at Thiruvarur for which he used to pray the Lord to give him Paddy/Gold so that it could be possible for him to carry out the Holy Task. During his visit to Thirukkuvalai, Sundarar prayed the Lord to show way for this noble cause. There was another devotee called Kundaiyur Kizhar,residing at Kundaiyur, about a km away from Thirukkuvalai, equally interested in feeding Shiva Bhakthas. Shiva appeared in his dream and told him that he was blessing him with a mountain size of paddy to be handed over to Sundarar. On hearing this, Sundarar was delighted and wondered how it could be shifted to Thiruvarur. He sang a "Padhigam" in which he prayed the Lord to arrange for the shipment of paddy to Thiruvarur. As a Miracle, the Shiva Bootha Ganas shifted the entire paddy overnight and laid them in front of each house at Thiruvarur.

Kundayur comes under the list of "Vaippu Sthalam" as a separate Padhigam is not available on this place. Sundarar has referred this place in his Hymns on Thirukkuvalai. The Temple at Kundaiyur is small but old. The sthala vruksham(Holy Tree) is also very old. Pilgrims visiting Thirukkuvalai should also make a visit to this Temple. The main deities are called Rishabhapureeswarar and Mangalambigai and there are sannadhis for Meenakshi and Sundareswarar in the prakaram. The trees near these sannadhis cover them like Umbrellas

Thiruvoimur, another Vidanga sthalam is about 7 km from Thirukkuvalai. The famous Subramanya Temple at Ettukudi is on the way. Etti is the Holy Tree here and hence the name. Valmeeki rishi worshipped Shiva here The moorthi of Subramanya is very special as the whole weight rests on the legs of peacock with fine craftmanship. His shrine is located between the sannadhis of Soundhareswarar and Anandhavalli.

Thiruvoimur is known as Leelaahaasyapuram in Sanskrit. A three tier Raja Gopuram is at the entrance and the area of the Temple is 180 x 144 feet Among the theerthams , Soorya Theertham on west, Paapamega Prasanda maarutha Theertham in front, Indra Theertham and Harichandra Nadhi deserve special mention here. The Sun God worships Voimur Nathar on 12th and 13th days of the Tamil month, Panguni when his rays fall over Swami and Ambal(Paalinum nan mozhiyaal/ Ksheeroba Vachani) Saiva Acharyas Sambandar and Appar have sung Thevaram inpraise of Voimurnathar. Neela Vidanga Thyagaraja Sannadhi is on the right of Voimur Nathar.Bhairava sannadhi on the Prakaram is a must for the visitors. Dhakshinamurthi on the Deva goshta is graceful.

Naminandi Adigal, a Nayanmar, hailed from Thiruneiper , not far away from Thiruvarur. He used to light the lamps at Thiruvarur Temple with ghee. As some Jains made mockery at his act and dared to light the lamps with water, Naminandi Adigal could do nothing except praying the Lord. He heard a voice from the sky asking him to light the lamps with water from Kamalalayam Tank . The lamps thus lighted by the Nayanar stood throughout the night to tell the world how great his devotion was.

The birthplace of the Nayanar has a Shiva Temple which is in dilapidated state. The compound wall has collapsed. It is strange why this small temple is ignored by the locals and other devotees who regard the 63 Nayanmars in high esteem. There exists a small sannadhi for Naminandi Adigal with folded hands in the prakaram. There is also a separate shrine for him on the main road which is of recent origin. Philanthropists from Thiruvarur and other places should come forward to save the Shiva Temple from destruction. This temple at Thiruneiper is located close to the main road that leads to Thiruthuraipoondi.

Temples near Thiruvarur - Part I

A girl from a Saivaite family got married to a Vaishnavaite and settled at a place near Thiruvarur. She could not resist worshipping Lord Shiva much against the wishes of her husband. However, she continued her worship in a cattle shed behind her house by assuming the place where the calf was tied as a symbol of Lord Shiva. The Vaishnavaite husband got angry on seeing this and went on to cut the axis to which the calf was meant to be tied  with an axe The Lord appeared from "Kanru Aappu"  to prove that He is omnipresent much to the delight of the girl. The Murthi is therefore called as "Naduthari nathar" ( Vathsa Sthamba Natha in Sanskrit - Vathsa means calf )and Saint Appar who visited the place sang Thevaram Hymns in which he referred the Lord as Kanraappur Naduthari".It is said that the deep cut made by axe is still found on top of the Linga murthi.The Murthi is also worshipped by Parvathi Devi, Idumbaasuran and Dharma sarma, a deciple of Medhaavi maharishi.

 As we enter through the three tier Raja Gopuram we find the Nandi Mandapam facing the sanctum. Beautifully carved Ganapathi and Subramanya are found on both sides of the entrance. The outer prakaram is spacious which houses a platform ("Thirumaaligaippaththi" ) where we find many shivalingas. Dhakshinamurthi in the Deva Goshtam is awesome. He is flanked on both sides by Chanakaathi Rishis as seen everywhere. But the unusual additions here are the deities of Saints Sambandar in dancing position and Appar on one side and Adhikaara Nandikeswara with folded hands standing along with his wife.  Swami Vimaanam is tall and majestic.One can see Saiva Acharyas, Surya and Bhairava on the western platform of the prakaram. Maadhumaiyaal , as mentioned in Thevaram of this place , is the name of the Goddess ( Sri Valliyaambika in Sanskrit) whose shrine faces south. All the ten songs of Appar's Padigam are carved in a stone slab and installed in the Mahamandapam. Naattukottai Nagarathaar have renovated the Temple in granite few decades ago. Siva Theertham, the Temple Tank is in front of the Temple. " Kal Panai " is said to be the Holy Tree of the Temple. The Temple is so neat that it presents a divine atmosphere to the devotees, thanks to the young Sivacharyar who has to come from a neighbouring village to do the Pujas.A three day festival is being conducted every year in connection with Vaikasi Visakam.

There is a deviation at Mavur road on Thiruvarur - Thiruthuraipundi road from where Koil Kanraapur is at a distance of about 5 km.Town buses are available from Tiruvarur but not frequently.A journey by car can also cover many important temples situated around this place. On the East is Saattiyakudi ( 3 km)  Naattiyathaankudi is on the west ( 5km) and Valivalam is in the southern direction ( 3 km ) Nearest Railway station is 6 km from here.

Sri Vedapureeswarar Temple at Saattiyakkudi is sung by Karuvur Thevar in Thiruvisaippa ( 9th Thirumurai). Vedha Theertham , the Temple Tank is considered Holy as it cures many diseases People take bath on auspicious occasions like Pournami days of the Tamil months, Maasi and Vaikaasi as Jwara Devathai took bath here and worshipped Rigvedha Natha Swami. A king called Devathatha was cursed by Saattiyayana Maha Rishi as a result of which he suffered from Leprosy. The Rishi pardoned him later and asked him to take bath in Vedha Theertham of Saatiyakudi Temple and worship the Vedha Nayaka.  On reaching Sattiyakudi, he came to know that the place was worshipped by Saandilya Maharishi. The dip in the Tank cured the disease and he returned to his place after receiving the blessings of The Lord.

The West facing Temple has a three tier Rajagopuram in the front. Kamala Vinayaka sannadhi is on our right when we enter the outer Prakaram. Saandilya Rishi had worshipped this Ganapathy with Lotus that blossomed in Vedha Theertham.  Hence he is also known as Kamala Vinayaka. This Temple is mentioned as "Ezh Irukkai" in Thiruvisaippa. It means that The Lord is seated on seven aasanaas namely, Ananthaasana, Simhaasana, Yogaasana, Vimalaasana, Padmaasana, Veeraasana, Vimalaasana Urdhwam. Deities of Karuvur Thevar and saandilya Rishi are seen in the Prakara.  Special worship is conducted to Karuvur Thevar on Pournami days. Kubera, known as Vaisravana in his previous birth became the King of Alagapuri as he lighted deepams in many Siva Temples,. Later he was blessed by Shiva to become His friend. Kubera has worshipped Vedhapureeswara at Saatiyakudi  Karuvur Thevar refers Kubera as " Sivapuran Thozhan" . Vanni, the Holy Tree ,on the south east is very old and making rounds around the Tree is said to remove sickness and bring peace.

The shrine of Vedha Nayaki is on the right of Vedhapureeswara Sannadhi. The Goddess is tall and faces west. The Sivacharya stays close by and very much devoted like his ancestors. More details about the Temple can be had from the Archaka on 094424 46077.  

Hrudayakamala Natha Swami Temple in Valivalam can be reached from Sattiyakudi .It is 8 km away from Thirunellikaval, the nearest Railway station on Thiruvarur - Thiruthuraipundi section. It is located between Kachanam and Keezhvelur on the bus route. Town buses are available from Thiruvarur. This shrine is sung by all the three Acharyas in Thevaram Hymns. According to the legend, a bird got the wisdom to worship the Lord of this place and made circles around the sanctum. Since the bird "karikuruvi" was so devoted , it received compassion from the Lord and became stronger than ever to protect itself from stronger birds."Karikuruvi" thus became "Valian" and continued to make circles around the Temple. Lord Shiva was so pleased and offered the bird  salvation and the place was therefore known as "Valivalam" The Temple pond, "Kaarana Theertham", created by Kaarana Rishi is on the East. An " aghazhi" encircles the shrine as a garland. The Main entrance is without a Raja Gopuram but well carved PanchaMurthis adorn it. Ambal Sannadhi is on the outer Prakaram which also houses the Holy Tree, "Punnai". Swami Sannadhi is on a raised platform. Such Temples ( "Maadak Koil") were built by Ko Sengat Chozha Nayanar .Sun God had created a pond here with the wheel of his chariot and named it as Chakkara Theertham. Surya Puja is conducted for three days in the Tamil month of Purattasi. Inscriptions of Chola and Pandiya period show how religiously the Kings took care in maintaining the Temple and its property.

Kachchanam is located at 25 km south of Thiruvarur and 11 km north of Thiruthuraipundi. Buses are available from Thiruvarur, Thiruthuraipundi and Nagapattinam. The main Deity is worshipped by Indra, Agasthya Rishi, Drunabindu Rishi,Viduman and Mithrasakan. When Indra tried to remove his hand after making a Lingam out of sand, his finger prints got embossed over it. That is why the place is called "Kai Chinnam" which got changed colloquially into Kachanam. Devendra dug a tank near the Temple with "Vajrayudha" , his weapon. Hence the Tank is called "Vajra Theertham". The Lord gave Dharshan to Indra as "Thyagaraja".This Temple is also a "Maadak koil" built by Ko Sengat Chozha Nayanar. A three tier Raja gopuram greets the visitors and among the Deva Goshtams, Dhakshinamurthi's dharshan makes us unmoved from the place.

"Kongilavam" , the Holy tree is near the Ambal sannadhi.The Goddess is known as "Vel Valai Nayaki" as Indra offered white bangles made out of tusk of Airavadha, his White Elephant.  Temples at Thirukuvalai, Ettikudi, Thirunellikkaval, Thirukkaaaravasal can easily be reached from Kachanam by road. In a nutshell, the whole region presents a spiritual fragrance and treat to the devotees.

 

Temples near Karaikal

It is with great reverence the Emperors have constructed the Temples which speak volumes about their dedication. They did not impede the imagination of the sculptors as long as they remained within the frame work of Agama shastra and Silpa shastra. It is also said that the sculptors had agreed to begin a project work with the king except going for the repetition of marvellous work done at Thiruvalanchuzhi- {Single stone Window}, Thiruveezhimizhalai{Pillairless Hall}, Thirupperundurai(Avudayar Koil)- {Kodungai} and Thirunanipalli(Punjai- Vimanam). Temples built by Kochengat Chola were constructed on raised platform (Maada Koil). Our Journey along the East coast of Tamilnadu will come across many Temples which are more than 1000 years old. Karaikal and its suburbs drew our attention when we covered some Historic Temples in that region.

It takes nearly 8 hours to reach Karaikal if we start from Chennai. Since we break the journey en route, it should take couple of hours more. For instance we stopped at Thiruppadiripuliyur (Cudalore) after crossing Pondicherry. The Temple is well maintained and the locals show interest in upkeeping it. The sthala vruksham(Holy Tree) is Padhiri , hence the name. Lord Paataleeswarar has been sung in Thevaram Hymns by Thirugnana Sambandar(for whom there is a separate shrine facing the main Temple) and Appar. When Mahendra Pallava who ruled in 6A.D. was influenced by Jain saints , Appar who returned to Saivism was tied with a rock and thrown into the sea. A miracle happened at that time when Appar sang "Panchakshara Padhigam". The stone started floating and the waves safely carried Appar to the coast. On seeing this , the King repented for his mistake and apologised. Appar in sitting posture occupies a shrine inside the inner prakaram , facing the sanctum.

Thirukkadavur was the next destination during the trip. After crossing Chidambaram and Sirkazhi, one has to take the road leading to Nagapattinam. The sign board at Akkur "Mukkoottu" will guide us to Thirukadavur. This is the place where Lord Shiva destroyed Yama and saved His devotee, Markandeya. Many aged couples who throng here on their 61st / 71st /81 st birthday conduct Homam at various places inside the Temple. Amruthakadeswarar,Abhirami and Kalasamharamurthi are important deities of the West facing Temple.

We joined the coast line at Tharangambadi and proceeded towards Karaikal. We halted at Thiruvettakkudi, where the Lord Thirumeni azhagar (Sundareswarar) appeared as a Hunter in front of Arjuna and fought with him. The Temple presents a new look after the renovation. It is sung in Sambandar Thevaram. Idols of Shiva & Parvathi as Hunters and Arjuna are seen in the shrine.

On the outskirts of Karaikal Town is Thiruth Thelicherry , now known as Koil karai Pathu. It is also sung by Sambandar. Naattukottai Nagarathar have renovated the west facing Temple .The Lord is called Parvatheeswarar and Ambal as Swayamvara Thapaswini. Sun's rays fall on the main deity in the Tamil month of Panguni.

Naganatha Swami Temple at Nagore is regarded as an important shrine in the Puranas. According to the Legend, the Great Serpent, Adhisesha worships Shiva on Maha Shivarathri at Nageswara swami Temple Kumbakonam, Nageswara Swami Temple at Thiru Nageswaram, Seshapureeswarar Temple at Thiruppaamburam and finally at Naganatha Swami Temple, Nagore. A five Tier Raja Gopuram adorns the entrance and a majestic Nandi is seen in the front Mandapam. Beautiful images of Gaja Samharamurthi, Bhikshadana, Ekapadha Murthi,Ganga Visarjana Murthi and Sarabeswara are seen in the front side of the Gopuram. People visiting Thirunallaru should not miss visiting this sacred Temple.

Yazhmoori natha swami Temple at Dharumapuram is situated 2 km ahead of Thirunallaru. Sambandar sang "Yaazhmoori Padhigam" which could not be reproduced by Thiruneelakanda Yaazhpanar in his "Yaazh", a string instrument. Such a great Temple is under renovation.

Thirunallaaru is busy on all days but the crowd surge more on saturdays and "Sani Peyarchi" period. "Dharbhai", a form of grass is the Holy Tree found in the prakaram. The Lord is therefore known as Dharbharanyeswarar who is sung in Thevaram by all the three Nayanars.

Karaikal is the birth place of Karaikal Ammaiyar whose life and works are described in Peria Puranam. There is a Temple for Karaikal Ammaiyar in the middle of the Town. Since she obtained the Holy mango fruits from the Lord to be offered to her husband, people offer mangoes in the Tamil month of Ani when Bhikshadanar from the Temple is taken out for procession (Photo courtesy: Dinamalar)

Three in one makes Unparallel

Visiting Kashi and Rameswaram continues to be top in the agenda of every devout Hindu. It is considered as an act to open the Gateway to God. But our tradition which is bound by Sastras and Puranas shows enormous amount of compassion towards those who can ill afford to spend time and money to offer worship at these places. They are not only lenient but show the alternate path to reach the goal. While doing so, the direction shown always reminds people not to forget Kashi. For example, six places in the elstwhile Thanjavur Dt of Tamilnadu are indicated on par with Kashi. They are Mayuram (Mayiladuthurai), Thiruvidaimarudur, Thiruvaiyaru, Thiruvenkadu, Chayavanam, and Srivanchiyam.

Interestingly, we find many Kashi Vishwanatha Temples in Mayuram. Cauvery river that flows across the town is regarded as Ganges as a dip here is regarded equal to the bath taken at Kashi. The important deities of Kala Bhairava and Tundi Ganapathi are also installed in separate shrines on the southern bank of Cauvery.Utsava idols of Medha Dhakshinamurthi and Ganga Devi are taken to Cauvery during the Tamil month of Aipasi (Oct-Nov) and a dip in the river on that day is as Holy as the one we have at Kashi.

The Panchanatheeswara (Aiyarappar) Temple in Mayuram belongs to the Chola period.It is on Mayuram- Thiruvarur road and one can walk down about a KM from the Big temple of Mayuranatha.In the absence of Rajagopuram, the entrance is beautified by installing fine images of Shiva and Parvathi flanked by Ganapathi,Subramanya, Maha Lakshmi, Saraswathi and Dhakshinamurthi. Tall statues of Dwarapalakas are also seen on both sides of the entrance. Like in Thiruvaiyaru, the deities of The Lord and The Goddess are taken in a palanquin to seven Temples located in and around Mayuram. This "Saptha Sthana Utsavam" was restarted few years ago by the efforts taken by the Adheenam and the devotees.

The west facing Temple has beautifully carved deities in Deva koshtam. They include Ardhanareeswara and Dhakshinamurthi. A small tank is seen in the front and The Goddess' (Dharmasamvardhani) shrine is facing south. Lot of inscriptions are seen on the outer wall of the Sanctum. Thiruvavaduthurai Adheenam who maintain the Temple have renovated it and performed Kumbabishekam few years back.

MahaGanapathi of this Temple remains in our memory for a long time after the visit. Mayuram has thus become the place where we get the opportunity of remembering both Kashi and Thiruvaiyaru together. Hence it is no wonder why the Tamil proverb claims the place an unparallel one ( "Aayiramaanaalum Mayuram aagaathu". )

Divine Route -- Kumbakonam to Thiruvarur

Kumbakonam region of Chola Kingdom offers cluster of awesome Temples , each one carrying evidence in the form of inscriptions to tell the History of the past glory. Probably for every 2-3 km, there is a village that has an ancient Shiva Temple.

If one takes the Thiruvarur route from Kumbakonam, the journey has to be broken at Saakkottai, about 3 Km from Kumbakonam. Sivapuram Temple where Lord Vishnu had worshipped Shiva(Siva Gurunatha) in the form of white pig , is hardly 2 Km from here. Sambandar and Appar have sung Hymns in praise of the Lord of this place. Bhairava Sannadhi of this temple is very popular among the devotees who offer worship on Ashtami days.

The road leading to Mannargudi from Saakootai will immediately take us to Kalayanallur within a distance of 2 Km. The utsava idol of Sri Amruthakalasanatha Swami will be taken to Mahamaham Tank once in 12 years.The Hymns of this Temple can be found in Sundarar Thevaram. Marudanallur is hardly 2 km away from here where we find Shiva Temple sung by Sambandar. This place was called Karukkudi during that time. Karukkudinatha Swami is Swayambu and the Archaka places a copper cover while performing Abhishekam. The Temple is being renovated and Kumbabishekam will be conducted on Sunday, 10th July,2011.

Journey towards Thiruvarur from Saakkottai for about 3 Km will take us to Arisikkarai Puthur, now known as Azhagaputhur. Sri Swarnapureeswara Swami Temple is surrounded by paddy fields and the atmosphere is very calm and breathtaking. Pugazh Thunai Nayanar, one of the 63 Nayanmars, belonged to this place. He did not leave the Temple even when people of the entire village deserted the place due to severe draught. He was blessed by the Lord who gave him one measure of coins every day to save him from the draught. Sung by all the three Acharyas in Thevaram, the Temple has a Subramanya sannadhi in which the Lord carries conch and Chakra in His hands.

Just before reaching Nachiar Koil, we come across Sidheeswara swami Temple at Thiru Narayur (Not to be confused with Thirunaarayoor, near Kaattumannargudi). The main deity is worshipped by Gorakka Siddhar and other siddhars, Hence the Lord is named Siddheeswarar. Thevaram Hymns of Sambandar and Sundarar call this place as Narayur Siddheeswaram. Deva Koshtams such as Bhikshadanar, Nataraja,Agasthya, Ganapathi and Gorakkar worshipping Shiva draw our attention. The Goddesss is on the right of Swami Sannadhi, both facing west.

Sara Parameswara Temple at Thirucherai, about 3 km from here is our next destination. Runa Vimochana Lingam in the Prakaram is worshipped by many to get rid of debts. People come to offer prayers in large numbers on Mondays. The Devakoshtams are wonderful at this place also.

Another 10 minute drive will take us to Naaloor Mayanam, sung by Sambandar. The Temple is about 1 km away from the main road. The priest comes to offer pujas once in a day. The Temple is in fairly good condition but the visitors are not many. A pious family of this village takes care of the visitors and arranges for worship at the shrine. Dakshinamoorthi in the Deva koshtam is a must see for the devotees who seek the Adhi Guru's blessings. One should not miss to see brilliantly carved Chandikeswara in the Prakaram. It is said that a snake encircles the Moola Lingam (as mentioned by Sambandar,"Paaloorum Malaip paambum") occasionally. There is also a sculpture on the wall of the sanctum, showing a king (said to be Aditya Chola)worshipping a Shiva Lingam.

Koneswara swami at Kodavasal is worshipped by Garuda and the Temple is close to the main road, separated by the holy pond.

Of the 70 "Maadak koil" (Elevated structures), built by Ko Chenkat Chola Nayanar, Kudavasal Perunkoil belongs to this group. The shrine built on elevated platform has a huge Vimanam over the sanctum with eye-catching stone idols describing various legends. Ardha- Nareeswara in sitting posture , Dhakshnamoorthi and Bhikshadana Murthi are to be watched by standing close to the vimanam.

Thalayalangadu is another 10 mts drive from Kudavasal. Appar has sung Thiruth Thandagam on Lord Nardhanapureeswara of this Temple. Though the Main Vimanam is renovated, the other parts are getting facelift. The Archaka lives close to the Temple.

By proceeding another 3 Km towards Thiruvarur, we reach PeruVelur, where we find another "Madak Koil" built by Ko Chenkat Chozha Nayanar. Piriya nathar sannadhi is a tall structure and Ambal is known as Abhinna Nayaki. The Lord is sung by Sambandar. Sivacharya's house is nearby and he facilitates us to have dharshan.

The same Sivacharyar who also conducts puja at Thiruk Karaveeram, 2 km from here, takes us over there.There is an alankara mandapam in front of the Temple. One fails to understand why the HR&CE is keeping a blind eye on it. What is left now is a few pillars surrounded by bushes. Dancing sculptures are there made in bricks!! The authorities should wake up now to save the Mandapam. Karaveera Natha swami Temple, Moola Lingam and Ambal are all big in size. Prathyaksha Minnamai, as the Goddess is called, is on the right of Swami Sannadhi. Swami and Ambal Vimanams, standing side by side are a pleasure to watch.

Our last leg of the tour was Sri Swarnapureeswara Swami Temple, Aandaan Koil. We have to come back towards Kumbakonam upto Kudavasal and take the road leading to Valangaimaan and drive for about 15 km. Appar in his Hymns has called this place as Kaduvaaik karaip Puthur. It is renovated and maintained well.

We are of the firm belief that our visit should not be allowed to be confined in admiring Historic places and writing blogs or just to gain spirituality for self. While admiring the past and gaining spirituality, we should also take stock of the present situation of the Temple, its maintenance and the livelihood of Sivacharyars who dedicate their entire lives by staying in the remote villages. In this connection, our Sabha has honoured Sivacharyars of Nine rural Temples in 2010 with a Sambavana of Rs 2000 to each of them. We continue to serve them and it is indeed a sevice to God Himself. Honouring the third batch will take place on Monday, 11th July,2011 at Thiru Narayur (Nachiar Koil) at 9.30 A.M. when Sivacharyars from Karukkudi, Thalayalangadu, Peruvelur and Aandan Koil will assemble here and participate in the event.